One way or another, almost everything at The Waratah interrogates the notion of what it means to be Australian. Native ingredients are a constant on most plates and in every other glass. All the craft beers, low-input wines and the lion’s share of small-batch spirits are homegrown. Nearly a quarter of the name-checked farmers, producers and suppliers are Indigenous.
On paper, this might sound like a premise better tailored to a highfalutin fine diner than a local hangout. In reality, the most Australian thing about this comely two-storey corner spot in Darlinghurst, which opened last December, might be its easygoing and egalitarian spirit.
This story is from the March 2024 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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This story is from the March 2024 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
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