AS the twin-engine prop plane from Bangkok began its descent into Luang Prabang, the former royal capital of Laos, I saw through the pearly dry-season air a wide river, one of the mighty Mekong's many tributaries. Along one bank ran glinting steel track that arced like a shot arrow and pierced the mountain in its way-the path of a new high-speed train. The river and the rail: one representing Laos's past, the other its future.
A landlocked country threaded by waterways, the Lao People's Democratic Republic was once a densely forested Buddhist kingdom called Lan Xang, known as the land of a million elephants. More recently, it was a revolutionary communist state bombed to smithereens during the Vietnam War, when the United States rained down some 2 million tons of explosives on its jungle-clad hills.
Today, Laos's future is unfolding in the shadow of the colossus to the north. The multibillion-dollar rail system, part of Xi Jinping's Belt and Road initiative, was engineered with Chinese expertise and financed by Chinese capital, and on any given day its first-class compartments carry mainly Chinese tourists from Borten, on Laos's northern border, to the modern capital of Vientiane, with sightseeing stops along the way.
This story is from the March 2024 edition of Travel+Leisure US.
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This story is from the March 2024 edition of Travel+Leisure US.
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