GMT No 81 - März 2023

WER LIEBT…

Zwei Jahre nach ihrem schlimmsten Jahr seit der Quarzkrise hat die Uhrenindustrie 2022 ihren historischen Exportrekord wertmässig gebrochen. Zugegeben: Dieser Erfolg bezieht sich hauptsächlich auf das Segment der Luxusuhren und betrifft nicht jede Marke im gleichen Masse. In dieser Ausgabe, deren Erscheinung mit der Eröffnung der Watches and Wonders zusammenfällt, analysieren wir die Trends in der hohen Uhrmacherkunst und die führende Rolle, die Genf dabei von nun an spielen wird. Ausserdem enthüllen wir exklusive Neuheiten und berichten in Bildern über die Vielfalt der 12. Kunst als Kunst der Zeitmessung.

GMT is the reference Swiss watch magazine, reflecting the spirit of high watchmaking since 2000. GMT created the Geneva Watch Tour and institutionalized the art of measuring time as the 12th Art. Novelties, test bench, interviews, architecture, economics, leaders, events, GMT covers the universe of fine watchmaking and unveils the most amazing timepieces. Watch enthusiasts will appreciate the beautiful pictures featured in GMT just as its exclusive articles in English/French or English/German

How could one not speak of a watchmaking firework display?
Geneva Watch Days got the ball rolling right after the vacation period, immediately followed by the Only Watch global road show and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

GENEVA WATCH DAYS ON THE HORIZON

Two main subjects occupying a third of this summer issue are bound to delight watch enthusiasts. First of all, we are inaugurating a first for the magazine with the blessing of Vacheron Constantin, which saw the entire editorial staff of GMT and our WorldTempus site converge on the Manufacture for a day of intensive multimedia creativity.

Während GMT, das Great Magazine of Timepieces, seinen 20. Geburtstag feiert, durchlebt die Uhrmacherei aussergewöhnliche Zeiten. Für die Welt im Allgemeinen ist es eine
furchtbare Zeit: Ganze Nationen straucheln in pan(dem) ischer Angst, aber sogar im Mikrokosmos der mechani- schen hohen Uhrmacherkunst werden wir bis an die Gren- zen der Widerstandsfähigkeit und der Kreativität getrie- ben, um die Flamme unserer Leidenschaft zu bewahren. Manch einer dachte, dass das Teenagerdasein schon kein Zuckerschlecken sei. Vor diesem Hintergrund aber 20 zu werden, ist wahrlich eine harte Nuss. Wer hat behauptet, das Erwachsenwerden sei einfach?
Als Chefredakteurin der von WorldTempus als (nur um ein Jahr!) jüngerer Schwester von GMT innerhalb der Verlagsgruppe vertraue ich darauf, dass es uns in diesen turbulenten Zeiten den Weg erleuchten wird. In Anleh- nung an seine Philosophie – die Institutionalisierung der Kunst der Zeitmessung – haben wir von WorldTem- pus eine digitale Plattform ins Leben gerufen, um die jüngsten Lancierungen und glanzvollsten Kreationen ins Rampenlicht zu rücken. Ihr strahlender Glanz wird uns helfen, glücklicheren Zeiten entgegenzublicken.
Es ist der 20. Geburtstag von GMT, und ich wünsche ihm eine lichtvolle Zukunft mit vielen Geburtstagskerzen, Feu- erwerk und Hunderttausenden, mit eingehenden Glück- wünschen aufblinkenden Smartphone-Bildschirmen. Denn das ist das Wesen des Lichts: Es erleuchtet, weist den Weg und inspiriert. Genau wie ein Magazin, das die schönsten, je von menschlicher Genialität und Tradition erschaffenen Gegenstände feiert.

Über dieser letzten Ausgabe des zweiten Jahrzehnts des dritten Jahrtausends schwebt ein ganz besonderer und sehr feierlicher Duft. Und das nicht nur, weil sie zur Weihnachtszeit erscheint, sondern auch, weil GMT 2020 auf eine 20-jährige, glühende Leidenschaft für die Uhrmacherei zurückblicken kann. Sie können sich sicher sein, dass wir das gebührend feiern werden. Auf symbolische Weise haben wir schon in dieser Auflage eine völlig neue Rubrik aus der Taufe gehoben und einen bekannten Chefkoch zu Tisch gebeten, der mit uns über sein Verhältnis zur Zeit spricht. GMT wird das Einzugsgebiet der schönen Uhrmacherei ausdehnen und insbesondere in Asien neue Lizenzen erteilen. Zusammen mit unserem Online-Partner WorldTempus als weltweit grösster zweisprachiger Uhrenwebsite haben wir bereits mit der Ausarbeitung eines Kultbuchs über die 20 Jahre Uhrmacherei seit 2000 begonnen. Wenn GMT über fabelhafte Initiativen wie die Dubai Watch Week, den Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève und die Only Watch als herbstliche Plattform für die Kreativität so vieler Marken berichtet, hilft das Magazin, den Enthusiasmus für die Werte der 12. Kunst als Kunst der Zeitmessung in die Welt hinauszutragen und leistet einen wertvollen Beitrag dazu, offenen Personen diese Werte zu vermitteln. Die neuen Formate der Watches & Wonders Geneva und der Baselworld verfolgen die gleichen Ziele. Dann können Sie die Neuheiten von Jaeger-LeCoultre entde- cken, deren wichtigste Lancierung des vergangenen Jahres unsere Titelseite schmückt. 2020 stehen die Zeichen also gut für GMT, deren einzige ernstzunehmende Komplikationen rein mechanisch zu sein scheinen, und so wünscht Ihnen die Redaktion ein wunderbares neues Jahr an unserer Seite. 

VON FRAUEN für Frauen 
Von klein auf wurde mein Leben von verlockenden Hochglanzmagazinen für Frauen bestimmt. Als ich meine erste Ausgabe der Teen Vogue in den Händen hielt, war ich 14. Nach und nach wurde sie von Vogue International und Vanity Fair abgelöst. Ich war von Frauen aus der Print-, Werbe- und Fernsehbranche umringt, obwohl Frauen im Luxussegment und insbesondere in der Uhren- und Schmuckindustrie kaum 10 % des Top-Managements ausmachen. Diese Nummer von LADY by GMT liegt mir besonders am Herzen, denn sie ist meine erste als frisch ernannte Chefredakteurin dieser Sonderausgabe. Viel wichtiger ist jedoch: Sie wurde von Frauen für Frauen gemacht. Aus welchem Blickwinkel Sie dieses Magazin auch betrachten, es wird von Frauen beherrscht: hinter den Kulissen, vor der Kamera oder als Autorinnen. Wir interviewten Caroline Scheufele, Kopräsidentin und Kreativdirektorin von Chopard, die uns interessante Einblicke in ihren Schaffensprozess gab. Speziell für diese Ausgabe beteiligte sich eine Stylistin an unserem Fotoshooting im inspirierenden Bohemian Chic des Melrose, eines von Melissa Schlemmer ins Leben gerufenen Wellness-Tempels im Herzen von Genf. Ein grosser Dank geht an Brice Lechevalier, der bei GMT Magazine als Chefredakteur und Exekutivdirektor von GMT Publishing weiterhin alle Fäden in der Hand hält, für sein Vertrauen in meine Fähigkeit, diese Lady-Ausgabe nach meinen Vorstellungen zu gestalten, und an Liah Millasson, die im vergangenen Jahr viel Energie in die Neugestaltung von LADY by GMT steckte. Ein noch grösseres Dankeschön gilt aber allen Frauen, die diese Ausgabe in der Hoffnung, die Vielfalt der weiblichen Bevölkerungshälfte gebührend zu vertreten, beraten, geschrieben, bearbeitet und gestaltet haben.

UHRMACHEREI MIT HERZ HERBST 2019 
Es ist zwar nicht immer der Fall, aber jede Uhr sollte Empfindungen wecken. Zunächst einmal bei der Person, die sie trägt, aber auch bei denen, die sie an einem Handgelenk erspähen. Jeden Herbst machen Gefühlsverstärker wie der Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève es möglich, dass sich diese positiven Schwingungen noch weiter und noch länger verbreiten. Weitere Botschafter der schönen Uhrmacherkunst wie der SIAR in Mexiko-Stadt oder die Dubai Watch Week dienen ihnen als Mittler und steuern ihren eigenen Resonanzkasten zum Konzert der als 12. Kunst anerkannten Kunst der Zeitmessung bei. Seit 2005 betritt zur gleichen Zeit der Supergefühlsverstärker Only Watch die Bühne, um seinen Weg ausserordentlicher Kreativität zu bahnen und in einer grossen Welle der uhrmacherischen Solidarität Hoffnung von Monaco über Genf in alle Zeitzonen hinauszutragen. In der tiefen Überzeugung, dass die mechanische Uhrmacherei eine Seele besitzt, die sich von wohltätigen Initiativen nährt, zollt GMT ihnen in dieser Ausgabe Tribut. Gleichzeitig geht es natürlich auch darum, die Dutzenden von Uhrenmarken anzuspornen, die daran teilnehmen und der Uhrmacherei gemeinsam eine einzige klang- volle Stimme verleihen. Im globalen Tohuwabohu eines gesättigten Luxussegments, das eine orientierungslose und rund um die Uhr umworbene Kundschaft betäubt, könnte eine starke und herzerwärmende Botschaft als Symbol einer einträchtigen Uhrenbranche möglicherweise ein willkommener Wegweiser sein, ob im Herbst, im Frühling oder bei anderen wichtigen Highlights. Anderen die Hand reichen – sollte das nicht ein ganz selbstverständlicher Reflex für jemanden sein, der vom Handgelenk anderer lebt? 

SOMMERLICHE TRILOGIE SOMMER 2019 

Die drei Elemente Land, Wasser und Luft bilden den roten Faden dieser Sommerausgabe. Das Feuer als viertes Element kommt nicht in unserer Auswahl vor, wird aber durch die Sommersonne symbolisiert, die stets über diesem mit positiver Energie geladenen Magazin strahlt. GMT ist schon lange der Meinung, dass die Zeit das fünfte Element darstellt, das alle anderen überdauert. Die DNA der verschiedenen Zeitmessinstrumente wird immer stärker vom Streben des Menschen nach immer besseren Leistungen in der Luft, zu Lande und zu Wasser beeinflusst. Egal ob am Steuer, in der Luft, unter Wasser oder an der Pinne: Überall wird die Uhr zum verlängerten Arm des Menschen. Oder lässt ihn bei ebendiesem Gedanken erschauern. Sie kann ihn aber auch einfach nur als einen erfahrenen Kenner offenbaren. Spass ist genauso wichtig wie Leistung. Den in uns schlummernden Hedonisten wunschlos glücklich zu machen sollte auf jeder Checkliste der unerlässlichen Funktionen einer Uhrenkollektion stehen. Ein Grossteil der in dieser sommerlichen Auflage vorgestellten Modelle tut genau das, und zwar jedes auf seine Weise – angefangen bei dem auf unserer Titelseite abgebildeten, weltweit flachsten Chronographen mit Weltzeitfunktion Octo Finissimo von Bulgari. Das gleiche Ziel verfolgt auch der Fine Watch Club als erster internationaler Uhrenclub, der auf diesen Seiten den Schleier über seinem Programm für den Saisonauftakt lüftet. Auch er schöpft seine Inspiration aus den drei Elementen und lädt seine Mitglieder zu einem ersten Stelldichein an der Monaco Yacht Show ein, um dort den Beginn einer neuen Only-WatchOdysee zu feiern. 

o, it wasn’t my forehead that caused this cluster of letters by crashing onto my laptop as I fell asleep. Nor did the keyboard unexpectedly switch to azerty mode. However, it was indeed during this transatlantic flight between Geneva and Miami that this acronym derived from TriBeCa came to me as I was trave­ling in the wake of the Watch Photo Awards. The exhibition of the 60 photos selected during the 2018 edition was first held in Geneva, then in Miami during Watches & Wonders – where I was then heading – and finally at BaselWorld 2019 with which the publi­cation of this GMT edition coincides. Three flagship cities with intertwined destinies: Basel and Miami have been linked by Art Basel since 2002, Geneva and Basel by their watchmaking shows, which will be brought together again in the same period in 2020. GeMiBa. All three have shown the same benevolent attitude towards the Watch Photo Awards, a competition showcasing the talents of lovers of fine watchmaking in a fun and uncomplicated way as well as sharing them with a broad international community.
Sincere thanks to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and to BaselWorld for their confidence and spontaneity in hosting the Watch Photo Awards, whose 2019 edition took off in February and will continue through to July with six monthly themes. The winner of the February “White” theme won a week’s cruise for two, while in March two stays at the famous Basel hotel on the Rhine “Les Trois Rois” are up for grabs. It’s time to send the picture of your favorite watch to watch-photo-awards.com, until the end of July and from cities around the world !

WATCH WEEK Geneva


It’s not the SIHH, but it has one thing in common with the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie : the organizer. As announced in this issue 60, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie – in conjunction with the Geneva authorities – is launching the first WATCH WEEK Geneva from May 7th to 11th 2019. The range of participants will encompass watch brands as well as various public and private entities, including GMT Publishing. The key motivation behind this major unifying project, firmly focused on emotions and sharing, is a determination to promote watchmaking and its skills among a wide audience. These two values were also the driving force behind the launch of the Watch Photo Awards last spring and are reflected in the major feature articles of this winter edition. Emotions and sharing take center-stage in the report on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève; in the interview with the President of its Foundation, Raymond Loretan ; as well as in the three thematic photo portfolios to which we are treating readers of this year-end edition – especially the one we shot in Crans-Montana to launch the ski season. Emotions are reflected in sensory pleasures, which come into action with varying degrees of intensity depending
on the watches we wear, as you are about to discover in a few pages. Just as the watch is an experience for all the senses, the experience of reading a beautiful Swiss Made magazine also involves the pleasing rustle of the pages and their gentle caresses accompanying new landscapes revealed in each article !

Ladies First
Symbolically, the title of our 100% ladies’ special edition published for the first time ten years ago has reversed the order of its name : GMT Lady has thus now become LADY by GMT. This metamorphosis runs very deep, involving a complete makeover of its layout,  content and editorial team. The outcome no longer reads like a single watchmaking magazine dedicated to watches for women and jewelry, but more like a national women’s magazine (of which so few remain !) focusing on feminine watchmaking and jewelry (it is still the only one).

GMT, Great Magazine of Timepieces (German-English)  Cover - Issue 88 Edition

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GMT, Great Magazine of Timepieces (German-English) - Issue 81

GMT, Great Magazine of Timepieces (German-English) - Issue 81

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