STYLE QUOTIENT, Museum Tour Fabergé: The Imperial Jeweller

Gemstones have captivated generations since aeons – and not without reason. Indian scriptures are full of myriad references about gemstones being linked to planets and celestial bodies, and their power to script the destinies of those who wore them. So it came to be believed that gems had life-enhancing and healing powers in them. 
Apart from their “curative properties”, these colourful geological entities were highly sought-after for their power to amplify the beauty of an ornament. Though the big three – emeralds, rubies and sapphires – and navratnas (a combination of nine gems), found their way into fine jewellery, a whole lot of gemstones were relegated to the sidelines and considered semi-precious.
Of late, the line between precious and semi-precious gems is blurring and haute couture designers are experimenting with rare and unusual gemstones that team up with diamonds in fine jewellery. This issue of ADORN focuses on avant-garde jewellery designer Harshad Ajoomal, founder and head designer of H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery, Mumbai. A man of many parts, Harshad celebrates colours and infuses his contemporary jewellery with hitherto sparingly used gems in India, such as onyx, lapis lazuli, agate, quartz, and more. The Creative Charisma segment decodes Harshad’s creative process in designing couture collections. 
In the Freeze Frame section we have yet another photo feature highlighting traditional but stylised silver and gold jewellery designed by Surabhi Didwania. Get to know more about this young and upcoming artist in Tete-a-Tete. In the Style Quotient section we have showcased the works of India-born, Dubai-based jewellery designer Vinita Michael.
Our US correspondent Smitha Sadanandan met with two up-and-coming jewellery designers – Anna Maccieri Rossi from Italy and America’s Andy Lif. While Anna’s geometric creations are dominated by the theme of time, Andy is known to impart colour to his jewellery by way of plique-à-jour enamelling and coloured gemstones.

In an age where savvy consumers demand responsibly sourced diamonds, there is one name that has stood out among the crowd for over a decade – Forevermark, the diamond brand from De Beers. Never before had the journey of diamonds from mine to market been so well documented. Forevermark revolutionised the concept of selling diamond jewellery; each of its diamonds is carefully selected and inscribed with a unique identification number for authenticity. Over the years, Forevermark has collaborated with India’s top design houses to create magnificent red carpet collections. In this issue, budding actress Toranj Kayvon adorns some gorgeous creations sparkling with Forevermark diamonds in the Cover Feature.

A Canadian of Persian descent, Toranj has shot several brilliant editorial features for Adorn and is a new entrant into Bollywood. She will be seen in the film Kesari, due to release in March. It has been a noteworthy journey for Toranj who came to the city of dreams to become a fashion photographer. Seven years down the line, she has proved her mettle and has shone like a rare diamond. 

Diamonds, especially rose cuts, are the muse of Apurva Kothari, a reticent jewellery designer based in Mumbai. SAVAAB, his twelve-year-old jewellery brand, is a testimony to his passion for creating modern diamond-infused pieces that marry form, balance, and aesthetics with utmost perfection. Read more about him in Creative Charisma.

The diverse aspects of nature and the history of Italy are the two major sources of inspiration for the globally recognised jewellery artist Alessio Boschi. Lauded and awarded innumerable times, Alessio has time and again surprised the world with his jaw-dropping creations. Our US-based correspondent Cynthia Unninayar traces the life of this supremely talented designer in Global Icon.

Jewellery wizard and visionary artist Wallace Chan has stunned the jewellery world yet again with breakthrough creations that personify celestial bodies and elements in unbreakable porcelain – a material that took him seven years to develop, and is five times stronger than steel. The Hong Kong-based maestro is non-traditionalist in his approach to design and his sculptural jewellery pieces effortlessly blend gemstones and precious metals like titanium and gold. Take a look at his breathtaking pieces in Shining Light.

Pavan Anand’s haute couture jewellery designs are conceptually path-breaking works that are influenced by his formal training in architecture. Popular with Hollywood A-listers and royal families, his brand has a footprint in 25 cities globally. Read more about his rise to fame in Creative Charisma. Advanced technical innovation has enabled artists to play with forms, textures, concepts and alternative materials, and see their hitherto impossible creations being transformed into reality. The annual jewellery show Artistar Jewels that will be held in early February in Milan is one such event that delights connoisseurs of artistic, avant-garde jewellery with its new-age perspective on design. Check out the new wave section for a preview.

The 12th edition of PAD London, the city’s leading art and design fair, showcased a dazzling array of contemporary pieces by luminaries of the jewellery industry, including Lorenz Bäumer and Walid Akkad from Paris, as well as G. by Glenn Spiro and Valery Demure from London. Our US-based correspondent Smitha Sadanandan curates her favourite pieces from the show.

Up-and-coming Bollywood actress Mrunal Thakur, who was critically acclaimed for her debut in Love Sonia, graces our cover and inside feature. In an exclusive interview, she speaks to ADORN about her passion for acting, forthcoming projects and her fondness for elegant jewellery designs.

India’s passion for diamonds burns just as intensely as the fires deep within the belly of the earth that gave rise to these miracles of nature. For centuries, India was the only centre for trading diamonds, and the love affair with the gemstone continues to this day – more than 95% of diamonds in terms of volume are still cut and polished in the country.

Palanpuri Jains of Gujarat traditionally controlled almost 90% of the diamond trade in the country. And Riddhi Doshi, a Mumbai-based bespoke jewellery designer and a Palanpuri by birth, can’t get enough of them. Known for her bespoke creations suffused mainly with diamonds of various shapes and cuts, Riddhi believes that just as each diamond is different, so is every individual who wears them. No two of her modern classic pieces are ever repeated. For Riddhi, it is all about creating a special piece for every valued client. Read about her interesting journey into the world of designing in Creative Charisma.

This season clearly belongs to fancy-cut sparklers, marquise, drops, ovals and more that are used to express curvaceous, sinuous motifs of nature in jewellery. Marie Bärsch, a renowned German fashion photographer, exclusively creates stunning visuals in this issue for our Cover Feature that showcases diamond jewellery with a high design quotient.

This issue of ADORN also highlights two maverick designers from India – Razia Kunj in New Talent, and Debasmita Ghosh in Fashion Forward.

With the wedding season upon us, ADORN puts together different looks pairing high-end jewellery with haute couture, in Brides of India.

Traversing cultural chasms can sometimes pose a challenge. But not for Bernadette van Gelder of the Netherlands, whose love for all things Indian led her to build a solid edifice called Van Gelder Indian Jewellery in 1980 – to facilitate the buying and selling of ancient and historic jewellery pieces. She stumbled upon India’s rich and celebrated tradition of crafts while researching oriental jewellery. The connection with India was instant, as if serendipitously arranged by the universe. She visited India and fell in love with it and its people. She had an inherently gifted eye that could spot a rare Indian treasure.

Today, Van Gelder Indian Jewellery is recognised as one of the most renowned dealers of Indian jewellery across the world, and is run by Bernadette’s two daughters, Fleur Damman–van Gelder and Noëlle Viguurs–van Gelder. In this issue, Noëlle speaks about how she and her sister have taken their mother’s legacy forward. Read all about their fascinating story in Culture Connect.

Top dealers and auction houses from across the world dazzled connoisseurs at the Masterpiece London 2018 jewellery fair. Exceptional collectibles by Cartier, Boucheron, Faberge, Cindy Chao, Moussaieff, Grima, Chopard and more displayed unparalleled artistry. Turn to Shining Light for a glimpse of these masterpieces. 

Our Singapore-based guest writer Richa Goyal Sikri decodes kundan-polki jewellery and clarifies common misconceptions of this important and popular jewellery category. The issue also features interviews of famous jewellery designers, including Neha Roongta in Creative Charisma, Priyadarshini Himatsingka in Fashion Forward, and Rahul Luthra in Style Expert.

“Everything has its beauty, but not everyone sees it,” Andy Warhol, an American artist and director, had once remarked. Inspiration is all around us, but it is only the gifted few who see things differently. This issue of ADORN spotlights some global iconic designers from the gem and Jewellery industry, who express their ideas and creations that bear their individual stamp of ingenuity. Take the Spanish Jewellery brand Magerit (see Global Icon), headquartered in Madrid. Motivated by the Art Nouveau form, the avant-garde house is known for showcasing man and beast co-existing harmoniously in nature. The sculptural, sinewy forms of jewellery recreate life-like visions and bear a unique design lexicon.

Fawaz Gruosi, founder and creative head of de Grisogono, Geneva, enjoys a huge fan-following of A-list Hollywood celebrities, who wear his creations to make a strong impression at red carpet events. Exploding with colourful contrasts, Gruosi’s jewellery spells high quotient glamour (see Shining Light).

Emerald, the verdant gemstone, is the muse of UK-based designer Gargi Rathi, who is of Indian origin. Her love affair with emeralds goes back to her childhood days. She believes that emeralds must be worn by all women, and her brand is the only one in the world that is dedicated to emerald jewellery with diamonds and pearls used as accents (see Creative Charisma).

The epic and surreal works of the renowned goldsmith, engraver and sculptor, the late Gio’ Pomodoro, are being showcased at Museo del Gioiello (Jewellery Museum) in Vicenza, Italy, (see Museum Tour). It’s a befitting retrospective of the artist, who was ahead of his times.

Sobhita Dhulipala, actor and former Miss Femina India Earth, models temple jewellery, one of the most celebrated forms of Indian artistry, in our Cover Feature.

There are some who enthusiastically dedicate their lives to promoting arts & crafts. Chief among them are curators who foster ideas & create an intimate connect between the viewer & the art work. Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos is one such aesthete. After working as a global foreign policy expert for over two decades, including a stint at the New York-based Ford Foundation, she launched Mahnaz Collection, a vintage jewellery gallery & boutique in Manhattan. Her strength lies in identifying unusual & highly collectible pieces dated from mid- to late-20th century. She recently curated an exhibition ‘London Originals: The Jeweler’s Art in Radical Times’, spotlighting 150 masterpieces by British jewellers from the 1960s & ’70s, & modern Native American jewels. Turn to Museum Tour to admire the selection.

Premier jewellery designer Margot McKinney displays an affinity towards gemstones – opals, pearls & pink diamonds – that are native to her country, Australia. Margot’s stunning psychedelic & bold creations resemble Impressionist paintings that are coloured with a multitude of other gemstones as well.  This charming entrepreneur & globetrotter speaks about her journey in Creative Charisma.

Significant regional influences, especially from Rajasthan & Gujarat, are evident in the art form of jadau (jadtar). With a visual grammar that is truly Indian, this craft of intricate engraving on gold requires a set of highly skilled artisans to complete a piece. Although rubies & emeralds & other semi-precious gems are used to accent patterns in jadau jewellery, the central stones often are vill&is; or polkis – diamonds that bear fewer facets & have less brilliance or are uncut or sliced. Our Cover Feature showcases some fine, painstakingly crafted pieces in 22-karat gold by CVM, a company founded in the 1850s in Junagadh, Gujarat. While retaining the essence of the ancient craft, the br& has infused contemporary elements to make it aesthetically relevant to the woman of today.

Gold has been integral to the culture of luxury even as far back as 3,000 years. This is amply evident in a new exhibition, Golden Kingdoms: Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas that is on view at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It is the culmination of a painstaking journey that lasted five long years to find, document, restore and showcase many artefacts and historic jewellery pieces from the Ancient Americas. The exhibition traces the culture of luxury in pre-Columbian societies such as the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs, from around 1000BC to the arrival of Europeans in the early 16th century. Many of these creations miraculously survived the Spanish Conquest and would have been forever lost to mankind had it not been for the combined efforts of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the J. Paul Getty Museum, and the Getty Research Institute. Admire some of these exquisite gold ornaments in Museum Tour. Ancient techniques have always been a reference point for contemporary artists. Ukrainian jewellery artist Stanislav Drokin, one of the three winners of the prestigious Artistar Jewels 2018 contest in Milan, speaks about the making of the ring titled Two Rivers by using the long-forgotten ancient Indian jewellery technique of double casting, known as Ganga-Jamuna, named after the union of two rivers in Allahabad. He says, “In a world where modern technologies replace craftsmanship and traditions, passed on for centuries, no technology can replicate what was created in ancient India centuries ago using the Ganga-Jamuna method. I am glad that I have discovered the Ganga-Jamuna method by myself, and have re-introduced it to the world!” This issue also focuses on two new jewellery designers from India – Sonali Sheth who heads Sphere, and Geetanjali of Moha, a silver jewellery brand. In Style Quotient, up-and-coming fashion designers Saaksha and Kinni illustrate striking outfits that are paired with luxury jewellery by Istanbul-based jewellery brand Gilan.

A rare, precious item becomes all the more appealing and valuable as it acquires antiquity. This issue of ADORN focuses on an endeavour that highlights such exceptional, inimitable objets de vertu that will no doubt go on to become heirlooms. The ongoing exhibition at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County spotlights 60 natural fancy green diamonds of various sizes and intensities from vivid-green and red to yellow-green and deep grey violet. Leaf through the Museum Tour section to learn more about these magnificent rarities.
Contemporary formats are recurrent themes that are increasingly attracting the young and old alike. Earlier in November, the Atlanta Contemporary Jewelry Show exhibited around 5,000 avant-garde jewellery pieces by world-class contemporary artists that piqued the interest of connoisseurs. Some of these out-of-the-box creations are presented in this issue. 
Beirut-based Ralph Masri, 28, an award-winning designer who honed his skills at Central Saint Martins, London, balances the act of producing fine quality jewellery imbued with a high fashion element. Read more about his inspiration and design philosophy in Creative Charisma.
Back on home turf, Pallavi Foley from Bengaluru, a futurist jewellery designer who breaks every convention, forecasts the trends for 2018. This super-successful designer with a large clientele understands the likes and dislikes of today’s generation. She believes that millennials are drawn to pieces that convey a personal message, and are also open to experimenting with newer formats of adornment such as body ornaments. Read more about her views in Style Expert.

The worldwide effort to revive the diamond story finally seems to have gathered steam, picking up from where De Beers had left off. After launching the ‘Real is Rare’ generic campaign in the US last year, the Diamond Producers Association (DPA) is poised to unleash its promotions in India. Unlike previous one-off attempts at generic marketing in India by trade bodies over the years, this time around a hefty annual budget of $7 million (Rs. 44.8 crore) will ensure that diamonds stay on top of consumers’ minds. DPA’s Jean-Marc Lieberherr outlines the strategy for the next few months. Turn to the Cover Story for more details. 
The who’s who of the coloured gemstone industry converged in Jaipur for the 17th edition of the ICA Congress on October 21st to 24th. Transparency, corporate social responsibility (CSR) and sustainability were among the main themes evoked by a number of speakers at the Congress. US-based veteran journalist Cynthia Unninayar gives a low-down of the four-day conference in In Focus. Auction house Saffronart held its first jewellery conference, The Timeless Legacy of Indian Jewels, in early October with much fanfare. The event, which was curated by jewellery historian Dr. Usha Balakrishnan, was attended by many luminaries from across the jewellery world, who shared interesting anecdotes about the famous Jacob diamond, the Golconda mines, and the legacy of royal jewels among several other interesting topics. Read more about the event in Spotlight. Our guest writer Vivek Shah of Karma Enterprise highlights the trends in silver jewellery for 2018 in Industry Insight.

Museums are a bridge between the past and the present, showcasing a slice of history to remind us of our artistic traditions. For five long months this year, the Fowler Museum in UCLA held an exhibition on the jewellery of India’s Thar Desert, with over 160 silver jewellery pieces, set against the backdrop of the 5000-year-old history of the Indian subcontinent. The border region was a gateway to the country and the many conquerors such as Babur and Alexander the Great among others brought in their own cultural influences. According to jewellery historian Dr. Usha Balakrishnan, the region holds special interest because some of the oldest and most historic forms of ornamentation have been preserved here. We provide a glimpse of some of these pieces in Spotlight.
Even though white diamonds remain a classic choice, women today are opting for stunning fancy coloured diamond combinations in high-end jewellery. Since the last couple of years, canary yellow and earth tone diamonds have started finding favour among the au courant. Our Cover Feature underlines this trend, showcasing designer pieces from top brands.
Famed international jewellery designer Shelly Purdy loves diamonds. Known as the ‘diamond ambassador’, she designs one-off gold collections embedded with these glittering gemstones of Canadian origin. This award-winning artist does bespoke commissions – especially engagement and anniversary rings. Read about her 25-year-long journey in this field. 
In the run-up to the festive and wedding season, ADORN showcases a cornucopia of bridal jewellery that resonates with the aesthetics of the modern woman. Turn to Get The Look and Jewel Gallery to check out what’s in vogue.

Luxury with a conscience is gaining traction like never before. These days more and more jewellery brands are supporting social, environmental or ethical issues. Eden Diodati, a London-based jewellery brand founded by African designer Jennifer Ewah, believes in supporting noble causes. Her jewellery is made by a cooperative that supports Rwandan women who survived female genocide. Jennifer's 'label of love' combines the two worlds of creativity and compassion effortlessly only because of her strong conviction to promote ethical luxury. Read more about her thoughts in Creative Charisma.
Butani, an Indian haute joaillerie brand based in Hong Kong, has mesmerised the world with a blend of Asian aesthetics. The opulent but unfussy handcrafted pieces set with the finest of gemstones and diamonds are favoured by royalty and rock stars alike from across the globe. Turn to Global Icon to know more about their 40-year creative journey to success.
Gold is an integral part of our social and cultural fabric, and in our Cover Feature and Jewel Gallery, we showcase jewels with a modern slant, yet redolent with age-old artistic crafts like filigree, repousse, granulation, and more.
In this issue we also bring you the well-curated antique and present-day collections from two of the world’s most renowned art fairs – Tefaf New York and Masterpiece London. Check out the Shining Light section and admire the timeless pieces infused with extraordinary artistry.

Adorn is a bi-monthly magazine dedicated to luxury jewellery. It is published and circulated in India by Spenta Multimedia. Adorn is two years old, and is a high-quality offering, produced in a larger-than-normal format on imported art paper, rich with visuals and full of exciting content. Adorn features the latest offerings from national and international jewellery houses. Every issue has a cover feature and themed photo spreads with top models such as Lisa Haydon, Vipasha Agarwal, Netra Raghuraman, and Bollywood stars like Sonam Kapoor, Neha Dhupia, Aditi Rao Hydari and Shraddha Kapoor. Besides, it also covers red carpet events and what the who’s who is wearing in jewellery today. The magazine also looks to educate readers about the craft of jewellery-making and features articles on subjects like diamond settings, gemstone cuts, and enamelling techniques written by experts and renowned jewellery historians. The magazine, which has a print run of 20,000 copies, is on sale at newsstands across India and is distributed free to a database of high-net worth individuals.

Avant-garde artists are soul-searchers and have a unique way of expressing themselves through their chosen medium. Individualism is a perfect foil for innovative ideas and in this issue, we have hand-picked jewellery designers who display a rare streak of originality that has now become their signature mark. They are unafraid to try out new technologies to realise their dreams in precious metals, and yet they are not out of sync with age-old crafts that lend the touch of eternal charm to their collections.  
In Creative Charisma, we present an exclusive interview with Ukrainian genius Stanislav Drokin, who combines handcrafting skills with high technical knowledge. His atelier, which he refers to as his creative lab, is a sacred place where the old and new worlds co-exist.
The ‘rock star’ of the global jewellery industry, Stephen Webster, who has earned the sobriquet partly because of his lifestyle and his Dylanesque looks, takes his craft very seriously. He, too, straddles the worlds of traditional and modern methods and has a firm grip on his skills to make jewellery that is sought after by Hollywood stars. Check out his outré yet ultra-glamorous creations in Global Icon.
Poet-goldsmith Jasmine Alexander is a daredevil and a fierce protector of the environment. Her collaboration with Sea Shepherd UK began when she joined them for an expedition on the high seas to chase away gun-toting fishermen. Recently, Jasmine produced a 20-piece collection for Sea Shepherd, and part of the proceeds will go towards conserving marine life. Turn to Spotlight to read more about her endeavour.  
NIFT-graduate Himani Grover interned with legendary jewellery artist Giampiero Bodino, creative head of the Richemont group. In New Talent, Himani recalls Bodino’s strong cultural affinity to his Italian roots. Impressed, the young artist came back to India to start her brand Chicory Chai that captures the beauty of the raw and rugged landscape of the country through its fashionable jewels.

Often, the only surviving record of a culture is its art. A jewellery piece, when finely crafted, becomes a timeless work of art worthy of being passed down through generations. Jewellery and art aficionados have been treated to a season of special fairs held in London and New York, giving them an opportunity to indulge in and cherish these coveted possessions.  

The Goldsmith’s Fair in London drew participation from 150 of the UK’s best jewellers and silversmiths showcasing modern jewellery treasures, while the 10-day Asian Art London held a series of auctions, gallery-selling exhibitions and customised museum visits. The European Fine Art Fair, popularly known as TEFAF, debuted in New York with some stunning haute joaillerie masterpieces. We bring to you a medley of admirable treasures in Museum Tour and Spotlight. 

Delhi-based designer Neha Dani’s limited edition and bespoke jewellery pieces are prized as they reflect the unique taste of the wearer. Her one-off organic rhodium-plated gold renditions look like Impressionist artworks stippled and shaded with fancy colour diamonds. Read about her journey to the top in Creative Charisma. 

Diamonds are the focus of ace jewellery designer Reena Ahluwalia, whose paintings project the many facets of this arrestingly beautiful gemstone. In Tete-a-Tete, Reena talks about the ease with which she switches roles from designer to painter. Diamonds again take centre stage in the Cover Feature, which illuminates various fancy cuts like marquise, ovals, and baguettes in exciting patterns. This issue also highlights major jewellery trends for the wedding season in the Bridal Splendour, Style Quotient, and Bridal Gallery sections.

India has got abundant talent and it is evident especially in the field of jewellery designing. Thanks to the strong foundation laid by several leading jewellery design institutes in the country, we are generating a new crop of designers, who take pleasure in celebrating the essence of Indian crafts and motifs underlined with a strong international appeal.
Aurelle by Leshna Shah is a relatively new brand that is immensely popular for its playful and organic gold and diamond collections that resonate with the aesthetics of today’s well-travelled women. In Creative Charisma, Leshna speaks about her solid grounding in technical competence coupled with her market research that helps her stay tuned to consumer demands. 
California-based Lai Designs is an indie jewellery brand started by NIFT graduate Puja Bhargava Kamath, who creates jewellery that is influenced by mid-century modern and Bauhaus art movements. The minimalistic lines are juxtaposed with centuries’ old techniques like Bidri, meenakari, Himachali and Kutchhi art and more. Clearly, there is a cultural diffusion that blurs artistic boundaries. Turn to New Talent to read more about this new jewellery label that makes designer silver jewellery.
Felt is the medium chosen by former banker and painter Aditi Amin of Ahmedabad, to craft jewellery that is bold and beautiful. Check out her views on the gradual shift in modern-day consumers’ preferences in Fashion Forward. 
Our Cover girl Vartika Singh, Femina Miss India Grand International 2015, wears some well-crafted jewellery pieces dominated by pearls and polkis (uncut diamonds) that are trending currently. Different varieties of pearls – be it South Sea, Tahitian, Basra and more – are being teamed with polkis to not only contain the cost, but also add a distinct timelessness to the pieces. In our Cover Feature, the concept of Indian-ness is reiterated through these jewels teamed with offbeat styling that speaks a global fashion language.

COVER FEATURE: AGE OF INNOCENCE
A stimulating design reveals an artist’s unrestrictive imagination that turns vivid visualisation into reality through sheer ingenuity. An artistic piece is almost always suffused with the creator’s personal experiences and emotions, as is the case with Gurmit Kaur Campbell, a recognised and award-winning jewellery designer based in the UK, whose free-flowing bespoke creations have no fixed templates – mimicking her life’s troughs and peaks. Gurmit’s first-person account in Creative Charisma tugs at your heartstrings as she speaks about her growing-up years as a dyslexic child, her journey to becoming a supermodel and being the muse of none other than Yves Saint Laurent. 
We bring to you the works of another superlative jewellery designer Juan Juan Hu from China, who adds a new meaning to avant-garde elegance. Turn to New Talent to check out her out-of-the ordinary creations, some of which are inspired by flowing water and thumb impressions. 
Expressing their individual styles of creativity are 20 leading jewellers from across the globe at the month-long Summer Exhibition at the Barbican Art Centre, London. In Museum Tour, we present their unique jewellery that blends precious and alternative materials effortlessly. 
Discovered around 5000 BC, gold has since been coveted by royalty and commoners alike across the continents. Even today, the luminous yellow metal has not lost its sheen in terms of popularity – more so in India, which is the largest consumer of gold in the world. Over 60 per cent of the demand is driven by bridal jewellery that is mostly crafted in gold. Our Cover Feature focuses on modern-day designer pieces that come alive with age-old, highly valued techniques and crafts.


We, at ADORN, celebrate artistry and venerate ancient and contemporary designs in jewellery as well as the praiseworthy endeavours of human skill down the centuries. This insatiable appetite to hand-pick premium artistic pieces drives us to scour jewellery exhibitions and art fairs across the world. In this issue, we give you a peek into one of the world’s most talked about art fairs TEFAF (The European Fine Art Fair) held in the Netherlands. Turn to the section Beyond Compare where we have selected some jewellery pieces from the 30,000-odd works of art and antiques. 
The late Munnu Kasliwal of The Gem Palace, Jaipur, did India proud by raising jewellery to an art form. With clients that included royalty and Hollywood A-listers, Munnu’s works have been displayed in the hallowed halls of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Kremlin Museum. His son Siddharth Kasliwal has taken on the daunting challenge of carrying forward his father’s legacy. Siddharth’s new collection Plique-A-Jour has already set him apart from his contemporaries. In a freewheeling interview with ADORN, he reveals how his iconic father shaped his childhood and his art. 
ADORN is privileged to feature the unconventional and avant-garde works of Jewellery Theatre, an 18-year-old brand based in Russia. Jewellery Theatre has gained a reputation that is unparalleled because of its amorphous, abstract renditions of nature that are dramatic and quirky yet sophisticated. 
Today, the world over, women are tilting towards lightweight jewellery that is organic and irregular in form. The modernist also isn’t afraid to move away from the popular gemstones like the big three, and make a statement with kyanite, iolite, onyx, agate and more. Our Cover Feature showcases contemporised forms of Indian jewellery that resonate with the woman of today. 


Go Light: Pale-toned jewellery will rock this season – from candy yellows, peach pinks, tranquil sea green shades to soothing lavenders and rose blushes! Minimalistic yet striking, these jewels will up your glam ante. Fashionably Yours: SAROJA YERAMILLI, co-founder of the recently launched Melorra jewellery brand, understands the pulse of the modern consumer. With more than 20 years of experience in organized retail, Saroja, an ex-Tanishq sales and marketing head, speaks about the evolving tastes of today’s woman. Floral Enchantment: It’s spring time again, and the sun-enriched colourul blooms are immortalised with gems and enamels in these haute horlogerie watches. And the Award Goes To: Be it in Hollywood or Bollywood, stars battled it out on the red carpet to flaunt the best jewellery this awards season.

Art has no borders. It spreads and manifests in different forms by assimilating diverse regional and international influences, as in the case of enamelling, popularly known as meenakari. The art that birthed in the 13th century BC in Greece, enamoured many cultures across the globe—and India was no exception. The enamelling art was influenced by Persia around the 15th century AD, and it is to the credit of the Mughal dynasty that meenakari got an exalted status. It received immense royal patronage and the cultural interaction between the Mughals and the Indians helped evolve a special jewellery language that has stood the test of time.
 
The Mughals slowly faded away into the pages of history, but they left behind a beautiful legacy of the kundan-meena craft that today bears a distinct Indian identity. Our Cover Feature showcases some exquisitely crafted bridal jewellery bedecked with meenakari forms of Jaipur and Benaras artistry. 

The theme of enamelling also extends to the Style Quotient section, where we present jewellery pieces embellished with bright and eye-catching enamels designed by Jaipur-based designer Sunita Shekhawat. The beguiling ornaments are paired with elegant garments designed by Pinakin Patel, an ace interior designer and architect, who has recently started his own haute couture line.

French luxury jewellery house Boucheron rekindled its century-old love affair with India for its Bleu the Jodhpur collection, which takes geographical indication quite literally by using Makrana marble and sand from the Thar Desert in most of the elegant pieces. 

This issue of ADORN also celebrates top designers from across the world, including the UK-based Ornella Iannuzzi for her avant-garde works, and Lebanese designer Selim Mouzannar, who recreates the magic of the Mediterranean landscape through jewellery.

When diamonds were first found in India in 800 BC, it was believed that altering their original form would diminish their sacramental potency. So, it came to be that Indians wore diamonds almost in their natural state – polkis, rose cuts and slices. As the allure of diamonds spread throughout the world, ingenious skills and technical advancements went into inventing different cuts to celebrate its fire and sparkle – the brighter it shone the greater its value. Today, we are seeing a resurgence of polkis and rose cuts, which feature prominently in the creations of some of the world’s biggest jewellery designers. The jewellery showcased in our Cover Feature, too, exudes raw elegance—uncut diamonds or polkis in a kundan (bezel) setting intermingle with diamond slices and rose cuts.
Taking the theme forward is Style Quotient, which displays jewellery by the famed jewellery house The Gem Palace of Jaipur. Polkis, rose cuts, and large cabochon gems enrich the iconic antique-looking pieces created by Samir Kasliwal. 
Mesmerising Art Nouveau jewellery from the turn of the 19th century reflects the changing role of women in a rapidly evolving society in the Victorian era. Women were the driving force and inspiration behind art jewellery. The exhibition “Maker & Muse: Women & Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry” at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum, Chicago is featured in Museum Tour. Of the many breathtaking exhibits, some are being publicly shown for the very first time. 
In Creative Charisma, we present the theatrical works of the legendary British designer Anabela Chan, whose nature-inspired jewellery is inundated with colourful gemstones.

GLOBAL ICON THE EXCLUSIVE WORLD OF DE SIMONE; 

SHINING LIGHT SAY ‘I DO’ THE MARTIN KATZ WAY; 

BEYOND COMPARE Masterpiece London: SPELLBOUND

CREATIVE CHARISMA - ALEXANDRA MOR’S POWER PLAY

FASHION FORWARD Jacqueline Cullen: REVOLUTIONIZING WHITBY JET

CELEBRITY TALK, Divya Khosla Kumar: THE STYLE MAVEN, STYLE QUOTIENT, ULTIMATE GIRLS, MUSEUM TOUR, RINGS THROUGH HISTORY

It is documented that from the beginning of human civilization, flowers were worn as body adornments; and with passing time, floral motifs made a seamless transition into jewellery. Colourful blooms and buds have continued to be the ultimate muse for all mankind because they nourish the soul, are considered propitious, and are also associated with romance. For our Cover Feature, we handpicked some of the most engaging and intricate floral pieces that portray nature in all its splendiferous beauty. 
In Creative Charisma, avant-garde jewellery artist Suzanne Syz from Geneva speaks exclusively to ADORN about her transformation from an art collector to a designer – thanks to her interactions with the famed American artists of the 80s like Andy Warhol and Basquiat. Today, she is known for her visually stimulating, one-off creations.
Sylvie Levine, a US-based award-winning specialist in designing engagement and wedding rings, tells us why she loves her job of crafting bespoke rings for brides in the world’s largest jewellery market, and how the modern bride’s aesthetics are getting more individualistic.
In Style Quotient, we showcase a high-end spread of jewellery patterned with rubies and fancy-cut diamonds by Asian Star, one of India’s leading couture jewellery brands, teamed with stylish collections created by New Delhi-based fashion designer Surbhi Shekhar.
Bringing to light new, budding talent is one of ADORN’s primary goals, and in this issue we focus on two jewellery designers who are riding the wave of popularity – meet Laila Singh and Mrinalini Chandra in the New Talent section.  
Our endeavour in ADORN has always been to portray the most stylish and original talent from all over the world and it is in recognition of these efforts that international icons speak to our editors and readily display their works in India’s only jewellery style and trends magazine.

FASHION FORWARD, FERNANDO JORGE'S CHROMATIC MONOLOGUES, GEM FACTS And Then Came The Fantasy Cut, STYLE QUOTIENT

For arts and crafts to endure the test of time, a civilised society has to have a deep-rooted regard for history. In this context, it is reassuring to note that the only gallery dedicated to jewellery in any museum in India – the National Museum of New Delhi – took remedial steps and re-opened the Alamkara Gallery after ten years with the help of jewellery historian Dr. Usha Balakrishnan. Alamkara displays over 250 pieces, some of which date back 4,000 years. The gallery is a gift to every Indian, and until such time that you visit the museum, we present a glimpse of some extraordinary pieces on display in Museum Tour. In an exclusive interview, Dr. Balakrishnan notes that the bejewelled objects document history, tell us stories about culture and heritage, and bridge the present and the past to help us reflect upon societal changes. 
Our Cover Feature focuses on kundan-meena, an invaluable art preserved by the skilled artisans of India. The craft flourished further with the Persian influence of meenakari work brought in by the Mughals. Rajasthan today is the epicentre of this artistry, which has seen several interpretations over the years. However, some jewellers even now practise the old techniques of stone-setting in antique-finished gold. 
Coming back to the present, ADORN was lucky to interview avant-garde Parisian jewellery designer and antiquarian, Lydia Courteille, whose work is hugely inspired by surreal painter Salvador Dali. Read more about her design philosophy in Creative Charisma.  
Ace filmmaker Karan Johar spoke to ADORN about his recent alliance with Gehna Jewellers to design a spectacular, modern line of jewellery. A style maven, Karan also doled out tips on fashion and accessorising in his interview featured in Celebrity Talk. Speaking of fashion, couturier Swapnil Shinde has designed ultra-feminine outfits to pair with jewellery by LIFE in Style Quotient.

Our Cover Feature, shot by Australian photographer George Favios, displays an array of blue gemstones, from blue sapphires, topaz and tanzanite to lapis lazuli commingled with diamonds. This issue also features interviews with renowned US-based designer Suzanne Kalan and British artist Alice Cicolini, who heavily draws inspiration from Indian crafts.
Our guest writer Jean Druesedow, director of the Kent State University Museum, talks about the ongoing retrospective show displaying the works of over 40 avant-garde artists of the American Jewelry Design Council. The exhibition titled “Variations on a Theme: 25 Years of Design” celebrates artistic inventiveness in American jewellery making. 
Collecting period pieces is an art in itself
Jewellery connoisseurs headed to the Grand Palais in Paris in September to attend the Biennale des Antiquaires show. The must-visit event drew the world’s finest jewellers including Chaumet, Cartier, Piaget, Graff and more, who presented their masterpieces. Readers can delight in viewing some of the important pieces displayed in Beyond Compare

Indian weddings characterise the ethos of our vibrant and multi-layered society like no other – they are celebratory, traditional, and jewellery, which is at the heart of bridal adornment, is linked deeply to it. In fact, the prospects of the Indian jewellery industry have always depended heavily on the bridal market. To put it in perspective, two of every three items of jewellery purchased in India are intended to be worn at weddings. Indians cannot decouple from jewellery as it’s an ancient love affair that spans many millennia. Our country was and continues to be famous for elaborate and skilled craftsmanship employed in designing body ornaments made from precious metals and gemstones. 
Come October, and we will once again welcome the long wedding season. ADORN joins in the festivities with a handpicked selection of irresistible bridal jewellery designs. For Brides Only displays a variety of high-end designer pieces, while Snehal Choksey of Shobha Shringar gives bridal trend directions in Expert Speak. The Brides Of India segment showcases some of Azva’s latest grand sets sculpted in 22-karat gold, paired with stunning outfits from top fashion designers.
In this issue’s Cover Feature, we have chosen colour-rich jewellery that gives a nod to the past, while staying very contemporary in its composition. Ace fashion photographer Arjun Mark has captured the finer details of the jewellery while tempering it with the earthiness of our exotic cover girl. 
Speaking of raw appeal, we were fortunate to interview the world-famous US-based designer Todd Reed, who uses only rough gemstones in his 
avant-garde jewellery pieces. Read more about his artistic process in Creative Charisma.
The star-studded four-day India International Jewellery Week, held annually by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, also tilted towards the bridal theme. Pore over the IIJW Trends section for a first-hand look at this season’s bestsellers.

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Adorn is India’s first magazine dedicated to the art of fine jewellery. It is published and circulated in India by Spenta Multimedia, the country’s largest custom publisher. The bi-monthly publication that was started in 2010 is the premier source of information for jewellery connoisseurs and designers. Adorn chronicles India’s jewellery design capabilities and keeps an eye on global trends.

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Adorn Magazine - July - August 2014

Adorn Magazine - July - August 2014

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