1965 and 1966 World Champion, San Juan Capistrano
I think surfing can get better with age. I probably love it more now than I did when I was 18, even though I’m not able to surf the way I used to.
Surfing without crowds is the best.
In the ‘60s, there were so few people surfing that you almost always knew everyone out in the lineup. It was way more laid back. It was what you would consider the ideal of what surfing is and could be. I’d go back to my 40-pound, 9-foot Terry Martin board if I could have Trestles with only four other people out again.
It can be tough being a female competitive surfer.
We were definitely second-class citizens when I was competing. All the women’s finals were set for the middle of the afternoon when Huntington Beach was blowing 20 knots and the tide was low. We always got the leftovers, but that was just the time we were living in.
It’s a challenge being in the spotlight as a teenager.
I always wanted to reflect well on the sport of surfing, so I took whatever limited amount of fame I had seriously and I tried to comport myself as best I could. But it wasn’t like fame nowadays. I would imagine it’s more difficult being in the spotlight today because everything is so much more invasive.
A lot of where you are is just luck.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة Volume 59, Issue 2 من Surfer.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة Volume 59, Issue 2 من Surfer.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
60 Years Ahead
We had a whole plan for this year. Funny, right? Surfer's 60 year anniversary volume was going to be filled with stories nodding to SURFER’s past, with cover concepts paying homage to the magazine’s most iconic imagery. Our new Page One depicts something that’s never happened in surfing before, let alone on a prior SURFER cover. And our table of contents was completely scrapped and replaced as we reacted to the fizzing, sparking, roiling world around us. In other words, 2020 happened to SURFER, just like it happened to you.
A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong
You don’t make 60 years of magazines without dropping some balls. Here are a few
THE LGBTQ+ WAVE
Surf culture has a long history of marginalizing the LGBTQ+ community, but a new generation of queer surfers is working to change that
For Generations to Come
Rockaway’s Lou Harris is spreading the stoke to Black youth and leading surfers in paddling out for racial justice
Christina Koch, 41
Texas surfer, NASA astronaut, record holder for the longest continuous spaceflight by a woman
END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING
By the time the pandemic is done reshaping the world, will the World Tour still have a place in it?
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
After decades of exclusive access to Hollister Ranch, the most coveted stretch of California coast is finally going public
What They Don't Tell You
How does becoming a mother affect your surfing life?
Four Things to Make You Feel A Little Less Shitty About Everything
Helpful reminders for the quarantine era
The Art of Being Seen
How a group of black women are finding creative ways to make diversity in surfing more visible
