Gourmet From Scraps

London's Silo throws nothing away in its approach to fine dining

- Alice Kantor

Silo's ice cream sandwich

Almost every dish chef Douglas McMaster concocts contains the remnants of another. The fish sauce he drizzles over leeks for a starter on his current seasonal menu comes from boiling down cuttlefish remains; an entree that consists of potato, seaweed, and crème fraîche flavored with coffee and kombucha gets its hint of java from the husks of roasted coffee beans; and his dessert sandwich contains ice cream from the buttermilk leftover from making butter, a wafer of wheat husks from bread-making, and a salted caramel-like syrup that's the fermented prize of soaking surplus bread for two days.