HAUTES-PYRÉNÉES

Take a walk on the wilder side of France with Janet Brice

- Janet Brice

White mountain tops piercing the skyline, crystal-clear tarns and green valleys, home to the brown bear, can only mean one thing; we are taking a walk on the wilder side of France in the Hautes-Pyrénées.

These southern peaks, dotted 430 kilometers along the FrancoSpanish border, may not have the glamour of the Alps but this rugged landscape promises adventure for thrill-seekers, the perfect vantage point for stargazers and one of the most important places for pilgrims in the world.

Rural and deeply traditional, the Hautes-Pyrénées provide a paradise for skiers, climbers, hikers, and bikers who can also explore the mountain villages, hilltop castles, and ancient caves before enjoying the hot springs.

For more than 50 years the countryside of département 65 has been protected as the Parc National des Pyrénées. Within the boundaries are the highest peaks in south-west France, including Vignemale which rises to 3,298 meters and is known for its Ossoue glacier. This area conceals some of the last pockets of true wilderness left in France.

Call of the wild

If you’re lucky (or unlucky) you could even spot a brown bear or griffon vulture along with the more welcome sight of a Pyrenean Mountain Dog guarding its flock. This Chien blanc was a favorite of the Grand Dauphin and inspired French author Cécile Aubry to write her children’s tale of Belle and Sébastien.

The return of the Pyrenean brown bear has been a controversial subject for local people. As numbers of this indigenous animal started to dwindle, a reintroduction program was set in place. In 1996 three healthy bears from Slovenia were released. However, this was met with resistance from farmers who feared for their livestock.