Women's Jewellery In India

From its auspicious slant to becoming a fashion statement, the significance of jewellery has evolved with time. Veteran luxury retail and lifestyle professional and independent consultant Anil Prabhakar sketches out the history of jewellery in India and shares his outlook of the industry in India.

- Anil Prabhakar

Since time immemorial, jewellery in India has been an integral part of women’s lifestyle. Women from different economic strata have different lifestyles. Their jewellery choices therefore differ. In a diverse country like India, jewellery also has a cultural connect. Occasions such as festivals and weddings have religious significance that differs from region to region. Jewellery usage is thus rooted in geographical traditions.

Despite the fast spreading westernisation trend in the country, 85 percent still adhere to the wedding customs strictly. In Hindu marriages, wearing a mangalsutra is mandatory. Yet, the design and materials differ from region to region. While Gujaratis and Marwaris often go for diamond pendants and Maharashtrians wear a pendant of one or two vatis, Bengalis often have corals added to the design. In South India, the variation in the mangalsutra and the way it is arranged varies from region to region.

With the passage of time, a shift in the significance and preference of jewellery was apparent. Today, with global exposure and more educated women joining the workforce, jewellery has evolved to become a fashion accessory.

Historical background

Indian royalty’s affair with luxury is well documented. The Nizams of Hyderabad, Wodeyars of Mysore, Gaekwads of Baroda and royal families of Patiala and Kapurthala were purveyors of luxury. They were big customers of international jewellers such as Cartier, Boucheron and Harry Winston .While gold has always been very popular, India is also the birth place of the world’s most famous diamond, Kohinoor. The Maharajas’ love also extended to natural coloured gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The positive outcome of the royalty’s fetish with gemstones led to the development of a rich skilled base and jewellery making traditions.