A Cut Above

Embark on a fantastical bejewelled journey with Chinese jewellery legend, Wallace Chan as he tinkers with techniques that make awe-inspiring baubles.

- Akshita Naharjain

Over a decade ago, Chinese jewellery maestro, Wallace Chan saw a magic show where the handcuffed magician escaped from the confines of a water tank in a single breath. Captivated by the stimulating act, Chan put his energies into creating a piece that could transform magic into a jewelled creation. The result, the Secret Abyss necklace which boasts of 1,111 emeralds and a 10.5 carat yellow diamond carved into a rutilated-quartz shell. “The piece was inspired by the idea of holding one’s breath for the world and the sense of extreme concentration,” says the designer. “The piece, from concept to completion, took 10 years. I broke more than 30 pieces before finally achieving success.”

With his meticulous method, innovative techniques, and unorthodox style, Chan has established himself as a cognoscente in the field of jewellery over the past 40 years. Beginning his journey as a sculptor’s apprentice at 16, Chan left at 17 to start his own gemstone carving workshop in Hong Kong. Diversifying from traditional Chinese figurines in ivory, Chan made a gradual move from carving opaque gemstones like lapis lazuli, malachite, and coral to coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, amethyst, and topaz that mesmerised him. “Gemstones have always been my guide. Their never-ending splendour and ever-changing colours are like a grand symphony that touches my heart. I am constantly discovering the beauty of nature in gemstones,” says the poetic designer.