Golden era

Local techniques and contemporary boutiques allow Greek jewellers to shine

In 1969, the Greek goldsmith-jeweller Ilias Lalaounis opened his headquarters near the Acropolis in Athens. Drawn to the mythology of his home, Lalaounis’ bold, warm, 22ct-gold designs referenced ancient narratives and Hellenic symbols, and were crafted using traditional goldsmithing techniques, such as hand hammering, weaving and filigree.

By the early 1970s, his designs were appearing on style leaders such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor, as women ditched formal gem-set styles in favour of organic-looking, hand-worked gold pieces more in tune with the casual-luxe hippie vibe that the decade ushered in. Spectacular gold jewellery designs by Xenophon Zolotas and Ioannis Vourakis also fuelled a Greek fine-jewelry boom. Today, a new wave of Greek jewellers is gaining global recognition for a modern Midas touch. In the vein of the fabled names that went before them, they bring a contemporary twist to indigenous metalwork tradition. They have also cultivated a minimalist design language in jewellery retail architecture. ‘It’s a scene which has evolved in the last five years,’ says Maria Lemos, the Greek/British founder of London-based jewellery showroom Rainbowwave. ‘The Greek financial crisis made designers more creative and resilient.’