ACID HOUSE

IF YOU’RE AFTER PSYCHEDELICS, FIND YOUR NEAREST RAVE, COS THE ACIDS WE’RE TALKING ABOUT ARE THE HOTTEST INGREDIENTS IN SKINCARE. BUT WITH SO MANY TYPES, IT CAN BE TRICKY TO DECODE. HERE’S A CRASH COURSE

- Perdita Nouril

Exfoliating Acids

When it comes to unlocking glow, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the Holy Grail. “AHAs are hydrophilic, ‘hydro’ meaning water and ‘philic’ meaning loving,” explains skin specialist Victoria Hiscock. “They interact with water molecules in the upper layers of the skin, which triggers an [exfoliating] effect.” So, which AHA is best for you? Glad you asked!

Glycolic Acid

Best for: fine lines

This one has the smallest molecules of all the AHAs, so it penetrates the deepest and fastest. “Studies show it helps to initiate collagen synthesis and boost hyaluronic acid (more on that later) in the lower skin layers, plumping fine lines and wrinkles,” says Paula Begoun, aka The Cosmetics Cop. Glycolic acid is so ruthlessly efficient that it only takes one application to yield results.

The downside? It works so quickly that skin can become irritated. This is where percentages come in – the higher the strength, the more likely irritation will occur. If you’re a glycolic virgin, start with formulations between three and five percent. “These will hit the sweet spot for daily use because any irritation will be very minimal and will subside after a few applications,” says industry expert Dan Isaacs. “You’ll know because the tingling sensation will disappear. However, be sure to give your skin regular breaks. So, use one bottle of product, then have a month off.” Once your tolerance rises, you can use stronger formulas, around 10 percent. Anything higher is best as a one-off treatment.