A Taste Of Peru

Once harshly dubbed ‘Lima the Ugly’, Peru’s capital hasn’t had an easy time shaking its cruel nickname, but cities don’t need a particular kind of beauty when they have massively rich culture, food and history to offer

- Mary Holland

Landing in Lima, you mightn’t be impressed at first. A sprawling coastal megalopolis often shrouded in fog, the city doesn’t have the magnificent beauty of other Peruvian postcard places, such as Machu Picchu or Cusco. This is likely the reason why Lima was always seen as a gateway into Peru’s other treasures, rather than as a destination itself.

Fortunately, I had done enough research on the city to know this beforehand. I knew that Lima would be sprawling and foggy. I also knew that it would burst my taste buds with good food, as it’s one of South America’s most prominent foodie capitals. Three of the city’s eateries – Maido, Astrid y Gastón and Central Restaurante – have been ranked consistently on the S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And these three establishments are just a partial taste of Lima’s rich culinary domain.

When it comes to Peruvian cuisine, there’s only one place to start: ceviche, a flavour-packed raw seafood dish that’s the country’s national food. Don’t hesitate to order a plate of uncooked fish at a pavement joint: Peruvians have been preparing ceviche since the Inca empire, which means wherever you land up, the fish will be as fresh as the waves that lap the city’s shores. Street food aside, there are many restaurants cranking out killer ceviche, too: chef Javier Wong’s Chez Wong and chef Rafael Osterling’s El Mercado are two of the fiercest ceviche competitors in town.