Japan: A Hiker's Guide

Natural beauty accented by history, religion and culture in a uniquely Japanese way make the country a treasure trove for walkers of all abilities.

- Steve White

MT FUJI ASIDE, THE MOST FAMOUS VIEWS of Japan are man-made . Contempla t ive temple-scapes in Kyoto. The Tokyo skyline with its Eiffel-esque tower. Teeming Shibuya crossing. Yet heavily forested, hugely mountainous and volcanic to boot, Japan is a country with enormous natural appeal.

Hiking there opens up surprising vistas, and also leads you to realise that the well-known and more hidden sides of Japan are much closer than you might suppose, and not simply in a physical sense. The mountains and forests open a window on the Japanese themselves. Despite a fetishistic pursuit of modernity, their culture retains an abiding connection with, and respect for, nature’s unforgiving moods.

The country’s volcanoes and earthquakes are an important part of this of course. But there’s also an obsession with nature’s ephemeral qualities: the passing of the seasons, epitomised by the beauty of blossom – cherry or otherwise – and the riot of colour that heralds the terminal decline of autumn leaves.

Trail access is aided by the country’s famed infrastructure. The shinkansen bullet trains are themselves a quintessential sight. Though prices are on the high side, so are standards. Where else does your train conductor bow on entering and leaving your carriage?

If you self-drive or bike around, the roads are like billiard tables and motorists unfailingly polite and rule-abiding. If all else fails, this has to be one of the best places to hitchhike: clearly something awful must have happened for you to be without a vehicle, so courtesy dictates that people help you save face.

The diligence and care are there in trailside ryoken and mountain huts too, usually well maintained and run to a tightly honed routine. Many serve hearty meals in communal settings – a good place to share trail stories and tips with similarly-minded locals.