Devil In The Details

As Couture Strats gaining ground, we profile the new power players changing the game

If you turn your gaze to international runways, couture seems to be in a state of flux. Formerly an institution of rigid rules, and a platform reserved for high-brow couturiers, this season we saw a motley crew of young ready-to-wear labels from several pockets of the globe put their best foot forward. Like Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Peter Dundas. Steering away from typical puff-princess ball gowns, the runway presented several oddities – recycled denim at Viktor and Rolf, puffer jackets over sari dresses by Jean Paul Gaultier and glam tracksuits at Valentino.

Closer home, the definition of couture is undergoing its own unique change. If we were to retrospect, what comes to mind is pioneer Suneet Varma’s ethereal gowns with intricately embroidered floral motifs with equally fantastical head gear.

The current state of couture in India is walking a different path – one that blurs the lines with ever-flourishing bridal wear, a contemporary matrimony of intricate craftsmanship and tradition.

“The creations, back in the day, were far more dramatic than some of the pieces on the rack today, because it really was about a designer sending ten pieces to the store, but each was wild and fabulous – a flight of their imagination,” says Tina Tahiliani Parikh, founder of multi-designer store Ensemble that has housed some of the most renowned couture collections to date. While the nature of the garment has evolved, the market is one that’s far from plummeting. Esteemed couturier Gaurav Gupta, known for his sculptural dresses of theatrical flair, feels positive about couture’s trajectory in the country. “Due to the rise of technology and increased curiosity amongst consumers, there is a wider awareness of clothes, techniques and silhouettes. There is a willingness to try something new, and the fact is that India is one of the few places where made-to-measure couture is thriving.”