POWER PLAY

Call it The Swap or The Hack, a collaboration by any other name would be as sweet and significant, concludes Jacquie Ang

- Jacquie Ang

After last year's phenomenal Hacker Project twist with Balenciaga in the Gucci Aria show, fashion observers now know better than to dismiss rumours of alliances, no matter how inconceivable it may seem. Still, the tip-offs did little to dilute the surprise runway show held at the Versace headquarters in Via Gesù last September. It was a milestone moment when Kim Jones emerged and Versace's iconic Medusa on the wall flipped to reveal Fendi's FF logo, signalling Donatella Versace's turn to present her collection. After seasons of pandemic-induced digital presentations, the entire manifestation was just the fabulous, supermodel-powered finale needed to conclude Milan Fashion Week on a high note.

The two Italian powerhouses were quick to eschew the oft-used "collaboration" for "swap". The definition explains how the partnership works: Donatella Versace (chief creative officer) switched roles with Kim Jones (artistic director of Fendi haute couture, ready-to-wear, and fur collections for women), Silvia Venturini Fendi (artistic director of Fendi accessories and menswear) and her daughter Delfina Delettrez (creative director of Fendi jewellery) to reimagine Fendi, and vice versa.

While the mash-up, dubbed Fendace, isn't quite what one would call a critically acclaimed work, the significance bears the heft of many firsts in fashion history. For one, the exchange gave each designer complete creative rein. The Maisons opened up their archives to the other, and each will produce its reinterpretation of the other brand, poised to launch worldwide this month.

For another, it crossed the "party lines" of different luxury conglomerates. Fendi is owned by Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), whereas Versace belongs to Capri Holdings.