The Philosopher's Tone

A rare encounter with a revered teacher of Bihar Yoga in the birthplace of Socrates

- Diya Mathew/Athens

The town of Paiania, east of Athens, is believed to be the birthplace of the philosopher Socrates (469-399 BCE) and the orator Demosthenes (384-322 BCE). Today, little remains of the ancient town, but tourists still visit Paiania—a 30-minute drive from Athens—to see the famous Koutaki cave, which lies on the slopes of Mount Hymettos. Situated close by, is Satyanandashram Hellas, a residential yoga ashram established by Swami Sivamurti Saraswati in 1984.

The ashram’s imposing metal gates stand amidst dense, lush foliage, in brilliant shades of green, reflecting spring in all its glory. The blaring horns and thick smog of Athens are forgotten in the sounds of crickets and birds, and the sweet smell of lavender and pine. There is not a soul in sight and the stillness is intimidating. I press a bell; its shrill sound pierces the silence. A minute later, a peep window set within the gate opens, and a lady’s head pops out and says hello. I explain that I have an appointment with Sivamurti, and she instructs a guard to let me in. I’m then escorted to a patio, set in a small but beautifully manicured garden, and given a chair. As I observe my surroundings, a lady dressed in a simple orange robe approaches and introduces herself as Atmaja. She tells me that I’m extremely lucky to get an appointment with her guru, as she travels most of the time teaching courses, and had only arrived at the ashram the previous day.

A moment later, Sivamurti walks onto the patio, dressed in an orange robe and headgear, and wearing a radiant smile. She is tall, sprightly, and with luminous skin. After exchanging pleasantries, I ask how she, an Australian, came about setting up a yoga ashram in Greece.