Noche Buena in three continents

The pleasures of the table come from the thoughtfulness of people

- SOL VANZI

Lolo Andoy was a very nationalistic Caviteňo, who insist-ed that only Tagalog be spoken in his home, even by his university-educated children and grandchildren. He subscribed to Tagalog newspapers and listened only to Tagalog radio programs.

This Pilipino-first policy extended to the kitchen, where native dishes ruled year-round. Pinakbet, pinangat, paksiw, ginataan, sinigang, inihaw, and adobo alternated with all manner of vegetable preparations. Every day, that is, except on Christmas Eve when the table was laden with delicacies from many parts of the world, courtesy of the suppliers of his jeepney factory.

First to come was always the five-kilo leg of ham from China, wrapped in layers of cheesecloth, thick paper, and red cotton string netting, followed by a large queso de bola all covered in thick red wax.