BIGRIDE OUR OF THE TORS

Max heads out into the bleakly beautiful Dartmoor National Park on an overnight bikepacking bash along wild, untamed trails Words Max Darkins Photos Russell Burton

- Max Darkin

When we decided on a bike-packing theme for this issue's Big Ride, W I immediately thought of Dartmoor. Yes, it's possible to wild camp elsewhere in England and Wales, but only with the landowner's permission. On Dartmoor, it's not just allowed but even encouraged. As you'd expect, there are guidelines to adhere to and some areas that are out of bounds, but it feels much more relaxed, and therefore enjoyable, to know you can pitch up more or less wherever you want to.

Dartmoor is a wild and rugged place, though. Bleak even, with its expansive barren upland moors and characteristic tors (granite outcrops) providing a feeling of remoteness. And then there are the numerous ghostly folklore stories that'll bounce around in your head in the middle of the night as you stare up into the huge dark sky, for what'll certainly be a memorable night.

Please note that you can't pitch your tent or sling your bivvy bag just anywhere - check out the camping map at www.dartmoor.gov.uk, which shows where you can stay the night legally. No vehicles, large tents or groups are allowed, and remember, leave no trace and don't light fires. Check the website for further info, such as not camping near roads or dwellings.

Ticking off the tors

Starting from Okehampton, our route joins the West Devon Way, which makes for an easy-to-navigate start to the ride, past Okehampton Castle, where supposedly - the ghost of Lady Howard haunts the corridors and, every night at midnight, travels from Okehampton to Tavistock in the form of a black dog, running alongside a coach made from the bones of her dead husband. Thankfully, it's daytime so Russell and I are just sharing the trail with other holidaymakers as we head further southwest, skirting the edge of the moors.