Go To Fogo
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|October 2016

It’s all a matter of life and death on Fogo Island. The final resting place for Arctic icebergs, this atmospheric Canadian isle has proved the end of the line for others, too. But it’s also a place of re-birth, caught in the middle of an unlikely renaissance fuelled by a most singular hotel

Nigel Richardson
Go To Fogo
The iceberg is the shape of a saddle and about the size of one of the island’s saltbox houses. As we contemplate it slowly shredding itself against the rocks, my companion, Fergus Foley, turns to me and says: “That’s travelled from Greenland. Probably took two or three years to get here. Lost weight as he came. And that’s where he’ll die.”

It’s early summer on Fogo Island, a speck of land with a population of just 2,400, off the coast of Newfoundland. Together with the adjacent landmass of Labrador, sparsely populated Newfoundland forms the easternmost Canadian province. But strangely, to me, it feels like a breakaway piece of the northern British Isles.

That impression is partly to do with the relatively short flying time (five hours) and negligible, not to say eccentric, time difference of 3.5 hours. But the principal reason is hidden in the way Newfoundlanders speak, and it was this intriguing connection to the old country that has drawn me back to the province for a third visit in as many years.

Fogo Island, like the myriad other islands and inlets along the fretted northern coast, is iceberg Valhalla in June. While the sun shines on the inland ponds, rocky coves and traditional white saltbox houses with their margins of picket fencing, the bergs bob offshore in their infinite variety of shapes. Fergus enthuses about these big blue Arctic emissaries. “They still fascinate me and I’ve been here a lifetime,” he says. Meanwhile, I reflect ruefully that the expiring iceberg’s passage here has, no doubt, been a damned sight less troublesome than my own.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة October 2016 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة October 2016 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

المزيد من القصص من NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) مشاهدة الكل
Annette Arjoon-Martins
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Annette Arjoon-Martins

RAISED BY HER INDIGENOUS GRANDMOTHER IN GUYANA, SOUTH AMERICA, ANNETTE BUILT A FEMALE DRONE UNIT TO MONITOR MANGROVES

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
The Amazon to the Andes
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

The Amazon to the Andes

THIS AUTUMN, PADDINGTON HEADS TO PERU ON THE BIG SCREEN - FOLLOW IN HIS PAWPRINTS FOR AN EPIC FAMILY ADVENTURE

time-read
1 min  |
November 2024
Serra de Tramuntana
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Serra de Tramuntana

MAJORCA'S MAJOR MOUNTAIN RANGE IS EVERY BIT AS BEAUTIFUL AS THE ISLAND'S COASTLINE - AND YOU CAN HIKE STRAIGHT FROM YOUR HOTEL

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
CRAFTING PERFECTION
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

CRAFTING PERFECTION

Carlsberg's old brewing district has been redeveloped, offering creative new ways to enjoy Copenhagen

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
HOTEL AWARDS 2024
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

HOTEL AWARDS 2024

IT'S BEEN AN EPIC YEAR FOR HOTEL OPENINGS, REVAMPS AND EXTENSIONS, AND WE'VE SCOURED THE GLOBE FOR THE BEST OF THEM. WHETHER YOU WANT TO TUNE INTO THE JUNGLE FROM A TREEHOUSE, SLEEP IN A PIECE OF HISTORY OR WATCH THE SUN SET OVER MOUNTAIN PEAKS FROM YOUR BED, YOU'RE GUARANTEED A MEMORABLE STAY FROM OUR WINNERS AND RUNNERS-UP

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
MALDIVES
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

MALDIVES

An archipelago of 1,192 coral islands and 26 turquoise atolls looping across the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is home to resorts that cater to every imaginable taste, from barefoot escapes to designer digs. The most convenient to reach are located in the South Malé, North Malé and Vaavu atolls, within speedboat distance of Velana International Airport, while more remote atolls are accessible by seaplane or domestic flight. With easy access to the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Baa and Raa are especially popular. Those around the Equator, including Gaafu Alifu, offer a splendid sense of isolation, abundant marine life and brilliantly starry night skies.

time-read
5 mins  |
November 2024
TRANSYLVANIA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

TRANSYLVANIA

The central Romanian region of Dracula fame makes for an intriguing autumn break - sink your teeth into its crafts and culture after discovering its turreted castles.

time-read
7 mins  |
November 2024
Audio adventures
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Audio adventures

FROM OVERTOURISM TO HOW THE OLYMPIC GAMES AFFECTS HOST CITIES, HERE ARE SOME OF THE BEST PODCASTS THAT EXPLORE THE WORLD

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
NICE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NICE

Historically a place where monarchs and aristocrats would escape the winter in favour of warm Mediterranean climes, this southern French city is at its best in the off season

time-read
9 mins  |
November 2024
BELFAST
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BELFAST

In the Northern Irish capital, the healing and uniting powers of music and art are being used to reconcile the past, look to the future and bring communities together

time-read
10+ mins  |
November 2024