High on a hill
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|January/February 2021
A WEEK IN THE CENTRAL PYRENEES, TUCKED AWAY IN THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF FRANCE’S OCCITANIA REGION, REVEALS A PASTORAL LIFE LITTLE CHANGED IN CENTURIES. HERE, AMONG MEDIEVAL MARKET TOWNS AND LUSH VALLEYS STALKED BY BEARS, THE PAST’S THREAD SNAKES ITS WAY THROUGH THE EVERYDAY PRESENT
ADRIAN PHILLIPS
High on a hill

Goiat is a bear — a big bear, weighing 250kg at least — and he’s close by. He’s also hungry.

The day after tomorrow, news will break that he’s attacked and killed two sheep on the forested ridge to our right. He’s probably lifting his snout in our direction at this very moment, sniffing the air with a nose seven times more sensitive than a bloodhound’s. Yes, he’ll be aware of us. But we know none of this. We’re just walking a mountain path in southwest France on our way to meet a shepherd.

The pitted track writhes up Montagne d’Areng from the tiny village of Jézeau, and it’s not hard to imagine bears among the pine trees of this lonely woodland in the Pyrenees. “This is a very pure forest,” says Éric, our guide, who lives in Jézeau. “Some of the trees are 300 years old.” “The sounds are lovely,” adds Penny, my walking companion. As we move over mossy banks and across clearings edged with bracken, I tune in to the lazy summer buzz from hidden bees’ nests, the rattle of the grasshoppers and the wingbeats of a black woodpecker as it breaks from a dead tree.

“There are just 50 bears in the French Pyrenees,” Penny says. “The word is that a large one called Goiat has been somewhere in this region for the past week or so — it’s exciting!” Penny’s heart has been stitched into the fabric of this place since she moved here from the Lake District 13 years ago. She arranges low-impact tours that take visitors beyond the thrills and spills of the ski resorts, introducing them to nature and the pleasures of the pastoral life.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة January/February 2021 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة January/February 2021 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

المزيد من القصص من NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) مشاهدة الكل
Dianne Whelan
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Dianne Whelan

THOUGH NOT A SEASONED HIKER TO BEGIN WITH, THE FILMMAKER BECAME THE FIRST PERSON TO COMPLETE THE WORLD'S LONGEST TRAIL NETWORK

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
NIGERIA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NIGERIA

The country's many communities come together over hearty meals with plenty of heat

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2025
Katie Hale
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Katie Hale

A VOYAGE TO THE GREAT WHITE CONTINENT IS BOTH A DREAM COME TRUE AND A CALL TO ARMS, TO PROTECT OUR ICY POLES AND, IN TURN, OUR PLANET

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
WILTSHIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WILTSHIRE

BEYOND THE MAIN ATTRACTION OF STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE HAS EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT SITES, GIANT CHALK HORSES AND COSY PUBS IN HISTORIC VILLAGES

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
BATH
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BATH

Thermal baths and Regency heritage have put this Somerset city firmly on the travel map - and this year the spotlight will be on former resident and literary great Jane Austen, in celebration of the 250th anniversary of her birth

time-read
7 mins  |
January/February 2025
GRANADA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GRANADA

In this Andalucian city, flamenco is an art form as well as a way of life not just for traditional dancers and singers but also for hip-hop stars, classical guitar legends and street artists

time-read
9 mins  |
January/February 2025
India's Golden Triangle
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

India's Golden Triangle

LINKING DELHI, THE TAJ MAHAL AND THE PINK CITY OF JAIPUR, WITH DETOURS FOR TEMPLES AND TIGERS, THIS IS THE PERFECT ROUTE FOR FIRST-TIMERS. WORDS: POOJA NAIK

time-read
10+ mins  |
January/February 2025
FORGED BY FIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

FORGED BY FIRE

A SUBTROPICAL ISLAND IN THE ATLANTIC, MADEIRA HAS RUGGED VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS THAT RISE ABOVE THE CLOUDS, NATURAL SWIMMING POOLS DOWN AT SEA LEVEL AND MORE THAN 1,900 MILES OF HISTORIC AQUEDUCTS TRACING THE LANDSCAPES IN BETWEEN

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2025
ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

A KAYAKING EXPEDITION THROUGH NORWAY'S LOFOTEN ISLANDS OFFERS WHITE-SAND BEACHES, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS AND THE CHANCE TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER VIKING

time-read
10 mins  |
January/February 2025
the RETURN
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

the RETURN

ON A PRIVATE GAME RESERVE IN SOUTH AFRICA'S KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE, AN UNLIKELY CREATURE IS MAKING A TENTATIVE COMEBACK - AND VISITORS ARE OFFERED A GLIMPSE INTO THE CONSERVATION EFFORTS TO SAVE IT AND OTHER NATIVE WILDLIFE

time-read
10 mins  |
January/February 2025