SEVILLE

The Andalucian capital may have a collection of classic sights, but that’s only half the story. Its atmospheric barrios, home to fresh flavours and burgeoning art scenes, are breathing new life into the city.

- Josephine Price

Claiming the world’s largest gothic cathedral and one of Europe’s biggest old towns, Seville serves up historical superlatives as big and bold as its world-famous tapas. Of course, all that soul-stirring Moorish architecture and fine food plays a major role in the allure of Spain’s fourth-largest city, but veering away from its historic centre reveals a cool, contemporary edge. Spread across the city are neighbourhoods that hum with an undercurrent of creativity; it’s in these pockets that old traditions are given a new lease of life, artists’ enclaves are springing up and new culinary traditions are being cemented. Make no mistake — this is a city that promises the best of modern Spain.

Triana

“People come to Triana and say there’s nothing to see,” Shawn says, nodding towards some nondescript apartment buildings from the 1970s. My guide admits her favourite neighbourhood has some shabby corners, especially when held up against the picture-perfect Old Town across the canal to its east. “But,” she explains, “you just have to know where to go.” Shawn Hennessey was born in Canada but has lived here for the past 27 years and knows the city intimately. She was one of the first people to start tapas tours here over a decade ago, after first launching an online culinary guide, Azahar Sevilla. These days, the site commands a loyal following for its knowledge of the city’s best kitchens.