Island hopping, wild camping, seafood safaris — Sweden’s wild west coast offers adventure by the bucketload. Words: Josephine Price
Per points out our route on a curled scrap of a map, so worn it seems likely to disintegrate in his hands. “This may be the last time we use this,” he concedes. It’s no problem, though. Per and his brother Lars know these waters. Within this swathe of the Bohuslän archipelago, they’ve hidden 40 lobster traps and today they’re taking me on one of their famed lobster safaris.
But the storm-tested fishermen look concerned at the elements. Outside, a fierce wind whips around the rickety hut.
There are around 8,000 islands scattered off Sweden’s west coast, and we’re plotting a path through a more protected, tranquil section as the previous night’s storm refuses to cease. Our vessel is a nine-metre, golden wood schooner dating back to 1952. Waves smash into the hull, engulfing us in a salt spray that immediately coats my lips and eyelashes.
“What’s the boat called?” I ask Per. He smiles: “Tuffa.” I ask if it means something in particular in Swedish. “No, it’s just what the boat does,” he replies. He purses then blows out his lips — “Tuff, tuff, tuff!” — mimicking the noise of the engine inhaling water and gushing it out again as we rise and fall with the crested tide, bouncing on each powerful surge.
As a slender eider swoops into view, Lars points out our first stop. Two buoys — a large red one and a smaller black one — mark the spot. He wastes no time hauling a trap from the seabed. It’s a tangle of black rope, scuttling with crabs and topped by starfish — but it’s empty. No lobsters, no ‘black gold’.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة Adventure January 2018: Wild ways to see the world من National Geographic Traveller (UK).
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة Adventure January 2018: Wild ways to see the world من National Geographic Traveller (UK).
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
Annette Arjoon-Martins
RAISED BY HER INDIGENOUS GRANDMOTHER IN GUYANA, SOUTH AMERICA, ANNETTE BUILT A FEMALE DRONE UNIT TO MONITOR MANGROVES
The Amazon to the Andes
THIS AUTUMN, PADDINGTON HEADS TO PERU ON THE BIG SCREEN - FOLLOW IN HIS PAWPRINTS FOR AN EPIC FAMILY ADVENTURE
Serra de Tramuntana
MAJORCA'S MAJOR MOUNTAIN RANGE IS EVERY BIT AS BEAUTIFUL AS THE ISLAND'S COASTLINE - AND YOU CAN HIKE STRAIGHT FROM YOUR HOTEL
CRAFTING PERFECTION
Carlsberg's old brewing district has been redeveloped, offering creative new ways to enjoy Copenhagen
HOTEL AWARDS 2024
IT'S BEEN AN EPIC YEAR FOR HOTEL OPENINGS, REVAMPS AND EXTENSIONS, AND WE'VE SCOURED THE GLOBE FOR THE BEST OF THEM. WHETHER YOU WANT TO TUNE INTO THE JUNGLE FROM A TREEHOUSE, SLEEP IN A PIECE OF HISTORY OR WATCH THE SUN SET OVER MOUNTAIN PEAKS FROM YOUR BED, YOU'RE GUARANTEED A MEMORABLE STAY FROM OUR WINNERS AND RUNNERS-UP
MALDIVES
An archipelago of 1,192 coral islands and 26 turquoise atolls looping across the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is home to resorts that cater to every imaginable taste, from barefoot escapes to designer digs. The most convenient to reach are located in the South Malé, North Malé and Vaavu atolls, within speedboat distance of Velana International Airport, while more remote atolls are accessible by seaplane or domestic flight. With easy access to the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Baa and Raa are especially popular. Those around the Equator, including Gaafu Alifu, offer a splendid sense of isolation, abundant marine life and brilliantly starry night skies.
TRANSYLVANIA
The central Romanian region of Dracula fame makes for an intriguing autumn break - sink your teeth into its crafts and culture after discovering its turreted castles.
Audio adventures
FROM OVERTOURISM TO HOW THE OLYMPIC GAMES AFFECTS HOST CITIES, HERE ARE SOME OF THE BEST PODCASTS THAT EXPLORE THE WORLD
NICE
Historically a place where monarchs and aristocrats would escape the winter in favour of warm Mediterranean climes, this southern French city is at its best in the off season
BELFAST
In the Northern Irish capital, the healing and uniting powers of music and art are being used to reconcile the past, look to the future and bring communities together