Life On The Mekong

Aboard a slow boat from Thailand to Laos, NIVEDANA JALAN embraces the rural life and forges beautiful connections.

- NIVEDANA JALAN

“WANT TO TAKE a slow boat to Laos along the Mae Kong?” I was asked by a tour operator in Chiang Mai, Thailand, while casually sifting through tour brochures. “We can make arrangements for you.” Interest piqued; I looked up at him immediately with a smile, “Tell me more.”

Having lived and travelled in Southeast Asia for over a decade, I can safely say that the famed Mekong River cruise is, in some ways, a rite of passage for every visitor in continental Southeast Asia—Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. So, while the idea wasn’t new to me as such, this two-day cruise on a slow boat seemed rather unique.

For starters, it wasn’t just a joyride and was going to serve as a means of transportation to reach Luang Prabang, the erstwhile capital of Laos. In addition, this journey seemed like an incredible way to experience the river and the small villages along its banks, which I wouldn’t typically visit independently.

Fast forward to the following week, I was enroute Chiang Khong, a quaint town on the Thailand border, the starting point of my cruise. After an overnight stay, I was whisked off at precisely 7 am by a tour representative.

All good things take time and patience, as did this. My first hour was spent at border control, but two immigrations later, I was finally driving along the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. I noticed that the Thai flags had been replaced by Laotian flags. We were now in Laos.

Soon enough, our minivan stopped, and we were asked to hop into our boat docked nearby. I took a quick look around and realised that we were now in Huay Xai, a small town on the Laotian border. We had simply cut across the Mekong, and I could still see my hotel in Chiang Khong on the other side of the river!