Is Diverse Beauty Just A Trend?

In an era of makeup collections with 40 foundation colours, diversity at the beauty counter would seem to be accepted, even celebrated. But ask influential makeup artists, hairstylists and photographers, and the answer is more likely that its just a start

- Bee Shapiro

Compared with fashion, beauty has been quicker to act on matters of inclusivity. Driven by social media, beauty has, in the last five years, moved to welcome, and to represent, customers all along the spectrum of skin shades and gender identities. Consider the smashing success of Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty line, which has been credited for the new 40-foundation standard and has proved just how myopic many beauty brands had been.

Clearly women of colour make up a market that is far from niche. The days when Iman, a supermodel of the 1970s and ’80s, had to blend her own foundation on photo shoots seem archaic. (She later started her own cosmetics line, ages before Rihanna, to address those very issues.)

“You don’t have the excuse anymore that the product isn’t available,” said Nick Barose, a makeup artist whose clients include Lupita Nyong’o, Priyanka Chopra and Gugu MbathaRaw. “Younger, older, darker, lighter, different undertones – you should be able to look at the face in front of you and match.” Similarly, change is taking place in hair care. Led by influential stars like Yara Shahidi, Sasha Lane and Tracee Ellis Ross, who wear their hair unprocessed, “wild, kinky, frizzy texture” is redefining Hollywood glamour, said hairstylist Nai’vasha Johnson, who styles Yara and Sasha.

This is “absolutely tied to race,” she said. “When you get into perms and relaxers and all of these things to alter what is naturally yours, let’s be honest, it’s embracing a race or nationality that is not your own.” What we’re seeing now – a variety of hairstyles and textures on the red carpet – has not come without effort. In Nai’vasha’s estimation, change has been five years in the making and an uphill battle.