Iced Dreams

Angeline Wilcox uncovers the history of Britain's frozen favourite

- Angeline Wilcox

Although ice cream is usually associated with summer, it is a food that we enjoy and indulge in throughout the year. Whether it's served on its own, in a cornet, or as an accompaniment, it is perennially popular. Seven in 10 adults say it's their favourite dessert because it makes them feel contented and evokes a sense of nostalgia.

Its origins can be traced back more than 2,500 years to ancient Persia where sweet, refreshing ingredients were mixed with ground ice. However, it wasn't until 1665 that the earliest recipe for an iced dessert - described as "icy cream" - reached Britain. It appeared in the recipe book of Lady Ann Fanshawe, wife of the English ambassador to Spain, so it's likely that she came across it while the couple were living in Madrid. She noted that it was eaten by the Spanish royal family, and it wasn't long before British royalty followed suit. In 1671, Charles II had the dessert served at a Windsor Castle banquet celebrating the Order of the Garter.

The British royal connection continued with a recipe by Queen Anne's former confectioner, Mary Eales, which was published in Mrs Mary Eales's Receipts in 1718. Later, in 1751, Hannah Glasse included an ice-cream recipe in her book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. Throughout the 18th century, chefs across Europe developed different techniques for making elaborate desserts, which were then frozen in highly decorative moulds. These were regarded as luxury foods and were initially limited to the aristocracy purely because they could afford them and their homes had purpose-built ice houses.