FERM BELIEF

Age-old ferments are changing the Indian foodscape

-  PRATIKSHA ACHARYA

Having been born and raised in Mumbai, I have always had a complicated relationship when it comes to connecting back to my roots in Odisha. Infrequent visits coupled with a mother tongue that I have never truly gotten the hang of meant that I always felt disconnected. While I still feel like an outsider, I only began to find some semblance of connection to it through food. It wasn't uncommon to come home to a hot meal comprising some of the local delicacies that my mother ensured we had a constant supply of through relatives coming back from Odisha. However, as a kid, I often turned my nose up at the sight of pakhala (a dish of rice soaked in water overnight until the water is slightly fermented) or even a curry made with kardi (fermented and slightly aged bamboo shoot). The idea of eating day-old food that had somewhat of a funky smell didn't sit well with me, and as a kid, I preferred eating everything my peers deemed okay.

After a chance encounter with pakhala yet again, it was only recently that I realised the humble dish's complexity. Blame it on evolved tastebuds or the openness to learn more about my culture; I finally realised what I was missing out on.