ΟΝ CLOUD NINE

Lydia Slater finds sybaritic serenity off-piste on an indulgent Alpine adventure.

- LYDIA SLATER

Ever Since turning 40, I have become increasingly aware of my mortality and never more so than on a skiing holiday. Not so long ago, I seriously considered doing the Cresta Run; now, I shut my eyes when riding a chairlift. While my teenage daughters delightedly spend their days speeding down the slopes, I have latterly eschewed the adrenaline rush of alpine skiing in favour of the more sedate, if still exhausting, Nordic variety. Consequently, when looking for a winter sports resort, the 'après' now takes precedence over the 'ski' for me; my offspring may clamour for black runs, powder snow and noisy nightlife, but I require gourmet cuisine, rural peace and excellent facilities-not always easy to reconcile.