In 2022, the Rhône experienced its hottest and driest growing season since 1950 even more so than 2003, a vintage burned into the memory of local winemakers. So I approached this year’s tastings with some trepidation. Extreme conditions rarely make for balanced wines.
A very different picture began to emerge as I started tasting. Rather than boozy behemoths, I found middleweight wines with just-ripe berry fruits and moderate alcohol. Some were lean, even, with green, unripe tannins. Never before has a vintage so confounded my expectations.
The drought started early in the year and barely let up until harvest; combined with the intense heat (it was the hottest May on record), it caused many vines to stop growing in order to conserve water. Some winemakers, such as top Hermitage producer Jean-Louis Chave, believe this is evidence of vines adapting to an increasingly extreme climate. Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme describes the blockages as the vine’s ‘security mode’ during periods of hydric stress. He says: ‘In 2003, the vines kept growing when they should have shut down… 2022 is very different.’ To many, it gives hope for the future.
Although the entire Rhône valley experienced similar weather conditions, this effect isn’t uniform. Some reds are lean, others feel jammy and alcoholic. It makes generalising about appellations and even producers difficult. There are some great wines, but 2022 is too variable to be described as a great vintage – although it’s largely a good one. In both the north and south, the greatest terroirs really proved their worth.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة February 2024 من Decanter.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة February 2024 من Decanter.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
Wine lover's guide to ALSACE
Pretty postcard villages, delicious food, fascinating history and, of course, excellent wines - this beautiful northeastern corner of France has everything a wine lover could ask for
José Pizarro does Christmas Spanish style
In a Decanter exclusive, the celebrated chef offers up an alternative menu for the seasonal celebration
Perfect whiskies for wine lovers at Christmas
What better gift could there be for a wine and whisky lover than a whisky matured in barrels previously used for wine? Our selection of 12 great bottles shows just why it can be a match made in heaven
WHITE CHATEAU
Hitherto a bit-part player, the white wines of this celebrated southern Rhône region are well placed to find themselves increasingly in the spotlight, as a result of the changing climate conditions. Our Rhône expert recommends 20 of his favourite examples to seek out
Chablis 2023
Variable weather made it challenging at times, but a late hot spell came to the rescue, resulting in plenty of good wines for drinking and for keeping. Having tasted almost 400 Chablis 2023 wines, our expert selects 30 of his favourites, along with five from top producers in neighbouring crus
Looking BACK, looking AHEAD
As 2024 draws to a close, we asked eight of our regular contributors to nominate their most memorable wine experiences of the year and to reveal what they're anticipating most in their plans for 2025
25 TOP SYRAH/SHIRAZ REDS
Two names, a multitude of personalities. For almost two centuries, Syrah has been woven into the fabric of the southern hemisphere's wine world. Today, it makes some of the most exciting and terroir-expressive wines to be found south of equator, with a growing shift towards single-site bottlings
A Resource for the World? - Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation's borders
Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation’s borders
Great Cabernets of South America
Other varieties may hog the limelight across South America, but the world’s most popular grape for red wines has played a critical role in the continent's wine heritage. We trace Cabernet Sauvignon’s story here, and recommend 16 benchmark wines to try
PROVENCE by train and bike
With rail links to Paris, Nice, Marseilles and beyond, a vast network of cycle paths and quiet roads, and a plethora of historic wine estates, Provence is an ideal destination for an eco-friendly, car-free and carefree) holiday
