Wines in the Air

Despite the challenges they face, airlines are going all out to please passengers on long-haul flights with their wine offering.

- Carol Wright

Settled back in one’s seat with some hours of flight ahead may seem the ideal time to savour a glass of wine. However, flying is not the ideal way to appreciate the subtle nuances of wines with cabin pressure reducing the effectiveness of one’s taste buds at 35,000 feet.

Wines in the air pose some very real challenges. A Lufthansa study showed that the perception of saltiness and sweetness dropped by 30% in flight. The cabin air lowers humidity to 20% or less; cabins are often drier than some deserts. This lack of moisture also reduces the sense of smell which again affects taste judgement. Summed up, the effect is like drinking wine with a heavy cold’s blocked nose. Other factors that adversely affect inflight taste are engine noise and vibration, time change and stress.

Airlines try and counteract this effect by modifying food recipes and adding more spices such as curry and lemongrass flavours. They cannot do much about wines, however. No known winery is prepared to adapt its process to make wines especially for airlines. It is the passenger’s response, not the wine that changes in the air and a well balanced wine at ground level will still be that at 35,000 feet.

Fine Bordeaux and white Burgundies are expected in First and Club classes but they do not always travel well; fruit and sweetness is suppressed and tannins and acidity, exaggerated. Ripe, fruity New World wines are a better palate choice although passengers tend to want recognised brands and labels. Informed advice is to go for bigger-styled wines; nothing subtle or aperitif drinking style. Shiraz, Merlot, Chardonnay and Viognier with bigger riper flavours and lower acidity are the best grape bets. Red meat with an Australian Shiraz would be a made-in-the skies combination.