Secrets of Soufflé Success

Home chefs have long been daunted by the specter of the deflated soufflé, an enduring trope featured in TV shows and movies throughout the 20th century.

- DAVID GIBBONS

Guy Savoy's Soufflé au Comté

4 eggs, separated

7 ounces aged Comté cheese, grated

4 tablespoons butter, softened

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

7 ounces milk Fine salt Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Put a kettle of water on the stove to boil.

2. Use 1 tablespoon of the butter to coat the insides of four 8-ounce ramekins, then dust them with flour. Set them aside in a cool spot.

3. Make a béchamel by melting the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour until well-combined and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Do not brown; lower the heat if necessary. Add the milk and cook, stirring regularly, until the sauce thickens.

4. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the egg yolks and cheese. Season with salt and ground pepper. Place the egg whites and a pinch of salt in a well-chilled metal bowl. Whip the whites with a large whisk until they form soft peaks; this should take 5 to 10 minutes. Gently fold the egg whites into the cheese mixture, one-third at a time. Do not overmix.