Dodging bullets is a skill that Washington winemakers have honed in recent vintages. In the face of threats including excessive heat, killer frost and wildfire smoke, they still managed to make impressive wines.
That's a testament not only to their determination, but also to the superiority of the terroir in Washington's Columbia Valley.
The 2019 reds that now dominate the market are a prime example of that. The growing season was nearly ideal until a statewide frost arrived in early October, ending the harvest and leaving some late ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other reds hanging on the vines. The state's largest producer, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, lost about 20% of its crop. That means fewer bottles of Washington reds for consumers, yet the overall quality of the offerings remains high.
That's the upshot, based on my blind tastings of nearly 350 wines in our Napa office since my last full report on Washington ("Standing Strong," Oct. 15, 2021), including more than 100 wines that were featured in my Washington wine focus last summer (June 30, 2022). My preliminary rating of the 2019 vintage was 89-92 on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, which reflected caution over the impact of the freeze. After tasting a full range of wines, however, I rate the vintage 94 points overall.
At Cayuse, Christophe Baron and Elizabeth Bourcier once again set the pace with two 97-point Syrahs: the Walla Walla Valley Cailloux Vineyard 2019 ($92) and Walla Walla Valley En Chamberlin Vineyard 2019 ($92). Their No Girls Syrah Walla Walla Valley La Paciencia Vineyard 2019 ($76) also earned 97 points.
Grown in rocky soils, these are all boldly flavored wines that retain detail and dimension. Grenache is another house specialty, and the Horsepower Walla Walla Valley Sur Echalas Vineyard 2019 (95 points, $122) is vibrant, earthy and complex.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة March 31, 2023 من Wine Spectator.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة March 31, 2023 من Wine Spectator.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
