Another caper around Capri

The legendary resort town is relatively unspoiled and glamorous. The food is better than it used to be, if you know how to skip the tourist traps

- VIR SANGHVI

I still remember the time I first went to Capri. It was almost exactly 10 years ago and I was travelling around the Amalfi coast on a Sea Dream yacht, which had about 50 cabins, and excellent food and wine. We went to places I had only heard of before (Sorrento, Ravello, Positano), which were part of the Amalfi coast in the south of Italy.

The ship would sail at night (the destinations are actually quite near) and dock during the day, allowing passengers to visit each destination. I loved everywhere we went, but the highlight of the trip for me was Capri.

We rented one of Capri's famous taxis (a 1950s convertible) and drove in glorious sunshine to Anacapri, the higher part of the island, and to a seafood restaurant on a cliff. It had a Michelin star and the food was fabulous. After the third glass of limoncello, I remember thinking: "This is the life."

I forgot the name of the restaurant, but never forgot that all-too-brief visit to Capri. When my wife and I went to Capri last month, the magic of Capri overcame me again. Clear blue skies, an azure sea, jagged cliffs and eye-popping foliage everywhere it was pretty much as I remembered it.

As soon as we checked into the Jumeirah Capri Palace, I showed photographs of our seafood lunch from a decade ago to the staff. Did they recognise the restaurant? You bet they did. It is called II Riccio and it is actually run by the Capri Palace. They were only too happy to book us in for lunch the next day.