The fire within

An occasionally deadly dinner-party addition, this perennial plant would become the first condiment produced by Heinz

- John Wright

I CLEARLY recall my father insisting on horseradish sauce on Sundays. I tried it once and, after a bit of gasping, came quickly to the understanding that grown ups were insane. I still dislike it in its full fiery glory, but sometimes use it in neutered form.

Horseradish, Armoracia rusticana, is one of only three members of its genus-and the only one to be found in Britain, although all three occur in Continental Europe and Asia. It is a moderately late import, as is suggested by its lack of both regional names and fungal and invertebrate associates. Other evidence comes in the form of its late literary references, the first by the herbalist and botanist William Turner, in the mid 16th century.