The secret to growing coriander

CORIANDER might be the most global of herbs, bold enough to combine with flavours from lemongrass to chilli in food cultures as diverse as Indian and Mexican.

- Mark Diacono

Yet its distinctive, floral, citrussy, almost medicinal flavour and scent is up there with Jeremy Clarkson, Marmite, Leonard Cohen and broad beans as a room divider. It is the favourite herb of many, but others would rather eat coal.

Even if you love it, growing your own can test the patience to its elastic limit: one sniff of imperfect conditions and it bolts with indecent haste. Fear not, I will share a few ideas that may save some tearing out of hair.

Starting coriander off is simple enough: it grows readily from seed in a sunny, fertile, well-drained yet moist spot. Although you can start it in modules, I sow most direct in spring and autumn, not too thickly and only lightly covered with compost. Germination can take up to three weeks, but is often quicker.

Potential problems start when it reaches 4in high, as coriander will find any excuse to run to seed. You can admire the health of your plant one minute, pop inside to make a cup of tea and return to find it a tangled mess of flowers and green seed. To reduce the tendency, try ‘Leisure’, a slow-bolting variety, avoid sowing in summer’s heat and water consistently, but only frequently enough to ensure the soil is usually a little damp.