When Francesco Risso was in the early stages of designing his latest collection for Marni, the Italian fashion house where he serves as creative director, he entered a sort of primal state. It began when he covered every surface of his Milan design studio in paper, from the floor to walls to the tables and chairs. He wanted to "cancel all information around us," so that he and his dozen or so design colleagues could "make things instinctively." He had essentially turned part of the studio into a cave.
Guests were bemused by the whole thing. "I don't know how to explain it," says frequent Marni collaborator Babak Radboy, an artistic director known for his work with Telfar Clemens. "It looked like a weird kind of cocoon." To more fully insulate the design grotto, Risso banished images from the premises.
To say that's an unusual arrangement is an understatement. Mood boards and reference images are the building blocks of contemporary fashion design. But there's a method to Risso's madness. "Fashion today feels like an overload of information," he says. He had been inspired, he tells me, by an invitation Virginia Woolf once sent to a friend, beckoning her to visit the author's country house. The letter included the scintillating sign-off: "Bring no clothes." "Obviously, she wasn't meaning to come naked," Risso says. She was instead, he says, inviting her guests to shed the "constrictive structures of society" that dictated what they ought to wear. Risso found this interpretation deeply inspiring. "I thought, Wow, what does it mean for these structures that we have created in the way we design, in the way we sell things?" In the cave, his team would bring no clothes. There, they could make things "without expectations, without needs, without all these parameters that are imposed by numbers, by social media."
"It's been," Risso tells me, "extremely interesting."
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة April - May 2024 من GQ US.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة April - May 2024 من GQ US.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
SHABOOZEY THE BIG SHA BANG
Shaboozey spent months at the tippy-top of the charts with a hit song about dealing with hard times the easy way: by hitting the bar. He sang on a couple songs with Beyoncé too. So we asked the one and only SHANIA TWAIN to help country's biggest new star make sense of his explosive year.
HANNAH EINBINDER BORN STANDING UP
With her star turn on Hacks, the comic turned actor has established herself as one of Hollywood's most exciting young talents-much to her own surprise.
Katt Williams The Man Who Opened The Portal
In January, the comic delivered an instantly iconic podcast interview that threw pop culture into crisis-and seemed to predict all manner of messy celebrity gossip to come. At home on his farm, Williams explains why he said what he said— and why he'd do it again, and again, and again....
JOHN DAVID & MALCOLM WASHINGTON A NEW HOLLYWOOD DYNASTY
The Washington brothers built their careers apart—until an irresistible project drew them together. In The Piano Lesson, they tackle a father's thorny legacy.
FUTURE & METRO BOOMIN'S HISTORIC Hit STREAK
What happens when the best rapper alive reunites with the hottest producer of the moment? You get a back-to-back-to-back run unlike any since the Beatles.
PHARRELL WILLIAMS Designer of the Year
Riding along from Paris to Hollywood to New York with the Louis Vuitton *men's creative director, whose prolific and often prophetic contributions to fashion, film, and music have once again thrust him to the center of the pop culture Venn diagram.
JOHN MULANEY. KID GORGEOUS GROWS UP
After immortalizing the whirlwind of the past four yearsrelapse, intervention, recovery-in his awardwinning standup special, John Mulaney has emerged as one of the most popular comedians on earth. For his next trick, he's embracing his surprising new role as a suburban dad.
DWAYNE JOHNSON THE WORLD'S BIGGEST Actor
It's hard for Dwayne Johnson to hide. Wherever he goes, there he is― as conspicuous out in the world as he is on the silver screen. But after two decades of playing a version of himself in huge movies, suddenly Dwayne Johnson is ready to do something entirely new: vanish.
How the WNBA Became the Most Fun, Complicated, and Exciting League in Sports
Caitlin Clark! A'ja Wilson! Angel Reese! This year, women's hoops emerged as a dominant popcultural force. But the road to sports-league supremacy has been long and winding. This is the inside story of how the W finally broke through.
A Companion for Your Wrist
Audemars Piguet's new release with artist Brian Donnelly, a.k.a. KAWS, brings high-art hype to the world of pop-watch collabs.
