A Golden C(age)

A closer look at the history of jewellery indicates that social constructs have frequently determined who can wear it—but the future is for him, her and them

- Amrita Katara

It’s 2023. Humankind has broken the shackles we once created for ourselves, and the concept of gender and our attitude towards identity is slowly evolving. In recent years, the fashion industry has taken note of this shift, with more brands offering unisex clothing lines. But what about jewellery? Can it be gender-free? And if so, how does a luxury brand cater to this new market without compromising on quality or style? A conversation with some of the most renowned names in the high jewellery industry helped Tatler realise that we are, in fact, returning to our roots.

“Historically, men have worn jewellery in all different cultures: from kings in Europe to the maharajas in India, the tsars in Russia to the pharaohs in Egypt. Jewels and stones were dear to men as a sign of power and wealth,” says Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, the CEO of French high jewellery maison Boucheron. “I have always wished men would wear jewellery again because that is what they have always done. I don’t see why this should change.”