Africa's wildest coast, from the comfort of a cruise ship
The Independent|June 16, 2024
Mark Stratton sets sail on a voyage into the unknown and discovers sobering insights into slavery and colonialism
Mark Stratton
Africa's wildest coast, from the comfort of a cruise ship

Seven countries in 13 days in luxurious comfort. Had I heard this 20 years ago when driving through West Africa, I would have rolled my eyes in disbelief. Back then I recalled hot days along potholed roads, hotels of dubious character and 'negotiations' - fiscal ones - at multiple border crossings. West African travel can be as challenging as it is richly rewarding.

Now, departing from Tema, Ghana, on Swan Hellenic’s small 76-cabin expedition cruise vessel, Vega, I would explore West Africa’s little-travelled coastline while scarcely breaking sweat or laying out a fistful of euros.

Unheralded as this coast may be, off-the-beaten-track Africa is in demand from consumers. Vega was repositioning from Antarctica for its Arctic summer season via a West African cruise with a completely full complement of passengers. So few vessels explore this coast that when we docked in Liberia, their tourism minister appeared on deck to inspect the first visiting cruise ship in 12 years.

From my large cabin on the sixth deck, balcony doors flung open to enjoy ever-present dolphins and Atlantic breezes tempering 28C heat, I watched Ghana, Cote d’Ivoire, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Guinea-Bissau and The Gambia come and go during a 1,759 nautical mile voyage to Senegal. Soporific sea days alternated with landings at major ports. It wasn’t always plain sailing, as languid officialdom held up disembarkations, and high sea temperatures (meaning denser seawater) slowed Vega down.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة June 16, 2024 من The Independent.

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة June 16, 2024 من The Independent.

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

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