To the ISLAND

JOANNA HUNKIN discovers why the Great Barrier Reef's Lizard Island is one of Sir David Attenborough's favourite places in the world.

- JOANNA HUNKIN

Perched atop a large rock, at the highest point of a track known as Chinaman's Ridge, we're waiting for the sun to rise. A blanket of floss sits overhead, casting an ethereal glow over Lizard Island. Below us, the resort is still and serene; our fellow guests yet to wake.

For the island's permanent residents, the day has begun. All around us, lizards rustle in the undergrowth and birds sing and squawk in perfect discord. We watch as a swarm of fish glide up and down Anchor Bay beach, following their metronome as they swim back and forth, back and forth. The movement is hypnotic and we relax into an almost-meditative state. But there's trouble brewing.

To our right, three blacktip reef sharks slowly saunter around the headland, combing the reef below for breakfast. They spy the cloud of school fish and stealthily make their way to shore, before shifting into turbo gear to cause maximum chaos and commotion. The serenity is shattered as fish fly out of the water, desperate to escape the feeding frenzy.

The shark's exit stage right only to return minutes later with the extended family, eager to join the breakfast buffet. A total of eight sharks, including several infants, circle below us, their every move visible through the brilliant, clear water.

It's like watching a scene from a David Attenborough documentary in real-time. As if on cue, a turtle pops its head up to say hello in a moment of pure comic relief.