CITY LIFE ACCRA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|April 2023
Ghana's beachside capital has become one of the most exciting places in Africa for artists and grassroot creative enterprises, with studios and galleries filling the gaps between raucous clubs and bustling markets
ELLEN HIMELFARB
CITY LIFE ACCRA

The road past Makola Market is swarming with hawkers. Pavements are littered with leather goods. Women wrapped in hand-loomed fabrics step into the street, balancing giant tubs of kpakpo shito peppers on their heads. Hip-hop blasts from a distant speaker. A preacher delivers a sermon into a megaphone.

Beside me, in the driver’s seat, Selasie Gomado is inching along to the petrol station. An hour ago, he picked me up for a visit to Artemartis, the artists’ collective he runs west of the city centre, but in that time we’ve progressed barely a mile. After damaging a tyre on a pothole, Selasie flagged down a guy on the roadside to repair it. A policeman stopped us at a barricade for a routine check of the boot. Then, as we crawled down a narrow residential street, a cyclist in a long, white, embroidered boubou teetered into the bumper and toppled in dramatic fashion, prompting a brief detour to the hospital. He was fine; Selasie was frazzled.

More than four million people live in the Greater Accra Metropolitan Area, and life here serves up daily obstacles, which is what makes Selasie’s business such a feat. The bluepainted breezeblock cottage is part-workshop, part-gallery and part-crash-pad, providing emerging artists with studio space, supplies, management, hype and, crucially, time to experiment with mediums and concepts. Canvases thick with saturated colour and emotion hang from the walls in various stages of completion, echoing the chaos outside.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة April 2023 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة April 2023 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

المزيد من القصص من NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) مشاهدة الكل
Dianne Whelan
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Dianne Whelan

THOUGH NOT A SEASONED HIKER TO BEGIN WITH, THE FILMMAKER BECAME THE FIRST PERSON TO COMPLETE THE WORLD'S LONGEST TRAIL NETWORK

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
NIGERIA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NIGERIA

The country's many communities come together over hearty meals with plenty of heat

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2025
Katie Hale
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Katie Hale

A VOYAGE TO THE GREAT WHITE CONTINENT IS BOTH A DREAM COME TRUE AND A CALL TO ARMS, TO PROTECT OUR ICY POLES AND, IN TURN, OUR PLANET

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
WILTSHIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WILTSHIRE

BEYOND THE MAIN ATTRACTION OF STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE HAS EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT SITES, GIANT CHALK HORSES AND COSY PUBS IN HISTORIC VILLAGES

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
BATH
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BATH

Thermal baths and Regency heritage have put this Somerset city firmly on the travel map - and this year the spotlight will be on former resident and literary great Jane Austen, in celebration of the 250th anniversary of her birth

time-read
7 mins  |
January/February 2025
GRANADA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GRANADA

In this Andalucian city, flamenco is an art form as well as a way of life not just for traditional dancers and singers but also for hip-hop stars, classical guitar legends and street artists

time-read
9 mins  |
January/February 2025
India's Golden Triangle
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

India's Golden Triangle

LINKING DELHI, THE TAJ MAHAL AND THE PINK CITY OF JAIPUR, WITH DETOURS FOR TEMPLES AND TIGERS, THIS IS THE PERFECT ROUTE FOR FIRST-TIMERS. WORDS: POOJA NAIK

time-read
10+ mins  |
January/February 2025
FORGED BY FIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

FORGED BY FIRE

A SUBTROPICAL ISLAND IN THE ATLANTIC, MADEIRA HAS RUGGED VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS THAT RISE ABOVE THE CLOUDS, NATURAL SWIMMING POOLS DOWN AT SEA LEVEL AND MORE THAN 1,900 MILES OF HISTORIC AQUEDUCTS TRACING THE LANDSCAPES IN BETWEEN

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2025
ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

A KAYAKING EXPEDITION THROUGH NORWAY'S LOFOTEN ISLANDS OFFERS WHITE-SAND BEACHES, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS AND THE CHANCE TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER VIKING

time-read
10 mins  |
January/February 2025
the RETURN
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

the RETURN

ON A PRIVATE GAME RESERVE IN SOUTH AFRICA'S KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE, AN UNLIKELY CREATURE IS MAKING A TENTATIVE COMEBACK - AND VISITORS ARE OFFERED A GLIMPSE INTO THE CONSERVATION EFFORTS TO SAVE IT AND OTHER NATIVE WILDLIFE

time-read
10 mins  |
January/February 2025