ZERO-WASTE PATTERN CUTTING: ELIMINATING PRE-CONSUMER FABRIC WASTE IN THE PATTERN CUTTING ROOM

Abstract With the growing acceptance of the ideal of sustainability, a paradigm shift is occurring in the field of fashion. With consumer tastes now being inspired by ideas of the upcycling, circular design, and slow fashion, many designers are being compelled by circumstances to reduce the carbon footprint left behind by the fashion industry. These endeavors are primarily targeted towards reducing waste generated during the garment manufacturing phase. Regrettably, these efforts are not being intelligently directed at preventing wastage at the designing and cutting stage itself. Conformist manufacturing methods such as the “Cut and Sew Method” that have been in practice for over 500 years now, generally yield up to 85 percent of fabric consumption efficiency. Consequently, 15 percent of fabric wastage occurs in the cutting room itself. This wastage is leaving behind a “significant ecological footprint”. Unconventional and eccentric pattern-making methods such as subtraction method, geo-cut method and A-POC have now gained popularity; conversely, zero-waste pattern cutting (ZWPC) as a concept has not been extensively used or proliferated yet. To comprehend the unpopularity of ZWPC, a thorough understanding of the concept and its benefits and drawbacks were studied through an extensive review of research work and projects undertaken and executed by experts and novices in the field of ZWPC. It was found that there are limited challenges faced in adopting the concept and it can be widely implemented to resolve the problematic disposal, reuse or recycling of fabric wastage.

Keywords: Pattern cutting, Sustainability, Fabric waste, Zero – waste pattern cutting.

Introduction

Textile or fabric waste is generated during the pre-consumer or postconsumer stage in a fashion cycle. At the pre-consumer stage, it can be fiber, yarn, fabric, and/or garments during the manufacturing process. Textile waste at the post-consumer stage maybe a garment or redundant household item. Sincere endeavors to reduce, recycle, and reuse waste generated at every stage are being carried out. However, the pre-consumer textile waste produced during the design and cutting processes is being neglected.[1]

Nearly 15 percent of fabric is lost as off-cuts during the pattern cutting stage in the garment manufacturing process. In addition to the primary fabric being wasted, other natural and human resources are also wasted. In particular, resources devoted to and embedded into the manufacturing process of the fabric are also wasted alongside. Therefore, addressing the origin of the problem by utilizing as much of the fabric and diminishing the wastage is the need of the hour. Embracing a zero-waste design approach condenses fabric waste in addition to the pressure on other resources.[2]