<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always"><div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always">CHEF | BIARRITZ, FRANCIA | 49 A&Ntilde;OS LA COMIDA NO SOLO ES ALIMENTACI&Oacute;N FISIOL&Oacute;GICA, es sobre todo social y emocional. No vas a un restaurante a seguir la dieta que te ha dado el m&eacute;dico: en un restaurante vas a picar, a acabar comiendo un poquito m&aacute;s de la cuenta. Las visitas a restaurantes son m&aacute;s sociales y emocionales y los platos tienen que ir con base en eso.<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always">NO HAY COMIDA SIN MOMENTOS. Cuando me preguntan cu&aacute;l es mi mejor plato, respondo que es imposible mencionar un &uacute;nico plato: &iexcl;no puedo decirte uno si no me dices un momento! Necesito saber si es de ma&ntilde;ana o tarde, si es una cena, si es social o una boda... T&uacute; me pones un producto, me indicas en qu&eacute; estado an&iacute;mico est&aacute;s y yo decido la t&eacute;cnica para tratar de levantar ese &aacute;nimo.BIKO ESTUVO EN EL AUGE DURANTE MUCHOS A&Ntilde;OS. Que haya durado 10 a&ntilde;os fue un lujo para nosotros y fue una d&eacute;cada maravillosa, pero algo dec&iacute;a dentro de m&iacute; cabeza que montar otra vez lo mismo no era la soluci&oacute;n. Creo que Biko termin&oacute;, la esencia sigue ah&iacute;, la marca sigue ah&iacute;, pero hab&iacute;a que pensar muy bien qu&eacute; quer&iacute;amos hacer. Ojal&aacute; para el pr&oacute;ximo a&ntilde;o podamos montar un Biko diferente, seg&uacute;n las necesidades de la pr&oacute;xima d&eacute;cada. El Biko de antes ya fue y tendremos que hacer uno puesto al dia, un reload.TERMINAMOS BIKO y nos quedamos con la mitad del nombre, es decir KO, y seguimos con MA; es decir, KO MA. Biko significa &ldquo;perteneciente a dos&rdquo;. Todo lo que termina en &ldquo;ko&rdquo; en euskera significa &ldquo;perteneciente a dos&rdquo; y nos pareci&oacute; que MA, o sea una coma, no significa nada, pero de cierto modo tiene una parte de Biko.EL ESP&Iacute;RITU GATXUPA EST&Aacute; EN LUR, est&aacute; en KO MA y estar&aacute; en el nuevo Biko. Ya no podemos pensar nada m&aacute;s en vasco, se nos mete en la cabeza toda esta identidad mexicana y acabamos teniendo sus toques: salsa picante para acompa&ntilde;ar, tortillas por si prefieres en vez de pan... Ya somos gachupos, no podemos salirnos de ese esp&iacute;ritu; adem&aacute;s, la cocina gachupa es muy flexible, podemos manejarla un poquito a nuestro antojo y darle la identidad que queramos.DENTRO DE TODAS LAS T&Eacute;CNICAS QUE PUEDE HABER, la m&aacute;s dif&iacute;cil es guisar. La menos matem&aacute;tica, la m&aacute;s emocional. Es decir, puedes hacer pasteler&iacute;a por medio de matem&aacute;ticas, sigues una receta y acabas haci&eacute;ndolo, pero cuando se trata de guisar debes trabajar con tus emociones, con tu olfato, y dejarte guiar. As&iacute; es como cocinaban nuestras madres y abuelas, as&iacute; que cuando les pides una receta no te la puedan dar: &ldquo;pizquitas&rdquo;, &ldquo;pu&ntilde;itos&rdquo;, &ldquo;chorritos&rdquo;&hellip; y no es que no te la quieran compartir, es que ellas se dejan llevar, como que entran en un trance. El que guisa es una persona generosa que solo piensa en dar. Es la mas bonita, pero es la m&aacute;s complicada.CADA VEZ QUE PIENSO EN UNA COCINA recuerdo a mi mam&aacute; y a mi abuela. Cuando entraba y no estaban ellas, la cocina se sent&iacute;a vac&iacute;a, eran solo objetos. Cuando estaban ellas todo tomaba sentido, hab&iacute;a amor, armon&iacute;a, paz... A nivel gastron&oacute;mico siempre es mejor una mujer [porque] es m&aacute;s emotiva, cocina mucho mejor, guisa mucho mejor&hellip; pero si una mujer no quiere estar en una cocina es como no funciona. Si en verdad quiere, es extraordinario porque lo hace con amor.LAS REGLAS DEL JUEGO GASTRON&Oacute;MICO est&aacute;n cambiando en la ciudad. Los ambientes grandes dejan paso a los m&aacute;s peque&ntilde;itos, lo global e internacional abre paso a lo local y municipal. Todo regresa a la casa, al metro cuadrado, lo que ser&iacute;a la huerta. Aunque estando en una localidad como la Ciudad de M&eacute;xico no siempre es tan f&aacute;cil tener cosas a dos kil&oacute;metros, necesitas poder comprar nacionalmente y dejar el dinero en el pa&iacute;s. En M&eacute;xico compras productos de mucha calidad porque al final tiene mucha frescura, y esa frescura tiene magia.EN LA CIUDAD DE M&Eacute;XICO, la industria est&aacute; saturada y muy repetitiva: entras a Masaryk y todos los restaurantes son de carne. Se ha perdido la diversidad, es pura monoton&iacute;a. Mientras no entendamos que el &eacute;xito es la diversidad, tendremos problemas. Hay una frase que define a la cocina, y dice que la cocina es de los osados y de los valientes. Para poner tu grano de arena debes ser diferente a los dem&aacute;s, no copiar porque eso no lleva a ning&uacute;n sitio.

Mikel Alonso

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