Climbing - Issue 151

In dieser Angelegenheit

THE TRAINING ISSUE:

TRAIN YOUR WEAKNESS - FINGER STRENGTH, POWER, ENDURANCE AND TECHNIQUE.

(RED) ROCK & RIVER - TWO OF THE BEST ROUTES IN THE COOLEST PLACES.

TECH TIP:TAG LINE RAPPELLING, EXTENDING ANCHORS AND ROOF CLIMBING.

+ ONDRA & THE DAWN WALL.

A League Of Her Own

Miranda Oakley’s Impressive Path to Become the First Woman to Solo the Nose in a Day 

8 mins

A Storied Isle

Don’t Be Fooled by the Stunning Appearance and Easy Approaches of the Coastal Climbing in Maine’s Acadia National Park. Bold Grades, Tricky Movement, and Exposure Demand Extra Effort. 

8 mins

Climbing To A Better Future

Against a background of 10,000-foot peaks, icebergs, and the vast Atlantic Ocean, local Inuit kids in East Greenland are growing up stuck somewhere between traditional ways of life and the quickly encroaching modern world. Communities struggle with record suicide, alcoholism, and abuse rates. Four Icelanders and an American asked the question: Can rock climbing help?

10+ mins

New Dawn

On November 21, 2016, after an eight-day push, 23-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra topped out the 32-pitch Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) on Yosemite’s El Capitan, a line many consider the hardest free big wall on the planet. With eight pitches of 5.14 and 12 pitches of 5.13, the route garnered mainstream-media attention in January 2015 when Tommy Caldwell, who had put seven years of work into exploring and freeing the route, and Kevin Jorgeson nabbed the first free ascent after 19 days on the wall. Ondra, who had never been to the Valley, trad climbed, or been on a big wall before, nabbed the second ascent, thanks in part to his support team of Pavel Blazek and Heinz Zak.Although Ondra has ticked some of the planet’s hardest sport climbs and boulder problems, critics assumed the experience-driven discipline of big wall free climbing would shut him down. Despite success that seemingly came easy, conditions, skin, and the route’s pure technical difficulty posed challenges along the way. Caldwell, Jorgeson, and Ondra spoke to us about the nuts, bolts, and near-invisible micro-crimps of this historic ascent.

5 mins

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Climbing Magazine Description:

Leaders of the vertical world. For 40 years, Climbing has been the leading source of information about climbing and mountaineering, as well as the values and community that have grown around these sports. Reaching more than 130,000 readers with 10 issues a year, the magazine is known for its stunning photography, expert technical advice, and rich coverage of routes, crags, and mountain ranges all over the world. It’s also beloved for a long heritage of epic survival stories, exclusive accounts of first ascents, and deep portraits of the colorful personalities that make the sport so lively.