No bacon. Optional croûtons. ALEX MCCLINTOCK celebrates the salad days of Tijuana.
The frat boys and sailors who once trawled Tijuana’s main drag have long gone, scared away by the drug war. Now the drug war has drifted away from the city centre, too, leaving Avenida Revolución, with its shabby bars and seedy strip clubs, largely to the locals.
It’s seven in the evening and the touts look tired. So do the zonkeys – donkeys painted black and white to impersonate zebras for photo opportunities (a small fee, gracias, to the zonkey handler).
I’m feeling tired myself, when a pink stretch Humvee rolls past. Half a dozen teenagers in formal wear lean out of the sunroof, waving and hooting. They’re on their way to a quinceañera, the elaborate 15th-birthday celebration that marks a Mexican girl’s coming of age. I’m heading to something of a celebration myself, for Avenida Revolución is the unlikely birthplace of one of Mexico’s best-known culinary exports.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der March 2019-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der March 2019-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
