Join The Club
Gourmet Traveller|July 2018

A glam new brasserie atop The Newport boasts crab worth crossing bridges for.E.

Pat Nourse
Join The Club

Just order the crab. Commit now, even before you pick up the phone or flex your clicking-finger to make the booking. Commit to the idea of plonking down $125 for a single dish. You won’t regret a cent.

You could do Bert’s on the cheap. The pâté en croûte, a terrine of game and pork framed by pastry and quince, lands at $21, and then there’s a $33 plate of pappardelle with a ragù of duck braised in anise and vinegar. Throw in an $18 elder flower and passion fruit pav and a couple of glasses of wine and you’d still have change from your $125. But you wouldn’t have the crab. And that would be unfortunate.

Chefs Jordan Toft and Sam Kane take the crab, roast it in the wood-fired oven in their gleaming open kitchen, pull out every shred of meat, and fold it with a little Basque chilli powder and breadcrumbs. They return it to the shell, and send it to the table with a tiny silver shaker of chilli, just in case you like it spicier. It’s sweet, rich, buttery and utterly devastating.

I ask the waitress how many of the little shakers have disappeared. We’ve only got three left, she says with a grin. They’re quick with a smile on the floor, and they know their business.

Diese Geschichte stammt aus der July 2018-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.

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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der July 2018-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.

Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.

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