A new wave of bright, lower-alcohol reds is a refreshing revelation in summer with a vitality all their own
“Buoyancy,” says winemaker Tim Bailey. “Red wine with fruit buoyancy. That’s what we’re trying to achieve. And that means picking the grapes a little earlier. Which means lower alcohol.”
Bailey is the winemaker at Leconfield in Coonawarra in South Australia, and the buoyant red he’s talking about is a cabernet sauvignon fermented with a few whole bunches of shiraz and cabernet franc. He made it during the 2017 vintage with his mate Dan Redman of the Redman family of local winemakers. It has been released under their Punch Down Boys label, and unlike almost every other Coonawarra cabernet I can think of – certainly in modern times – it sits at a mere 12 percent alcohol. And it’s deliciously, almost dangerously gluggable.
“As winemakers we’ve always known that, when it’s really young, cabernet can have beautiful aromatics and lovely natural-acidity body,” he says. “We’ve just tried to capture that and share it.”
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der February 2018-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der February 2018-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
