FIND YOUR FEET

Where the mountains meet the sea, Helen Parkinson puts her best foot forward to discover the pleasures of Pyréné es-Orientales

- Helen Parkins

Whatever you do, hold onto the map!” We’re teetering on a cliffside footpath south of Port-Vendres as fierce white horses crash against the rocks below. The tramontane has whipped my cheeks scarlet and the map threatens a hasty getaway from my freezing fingers. Ahead, Cap Béar semaphore rises from the garrigue like a palm-fringed desert oasis, a promising respite from the monstrous wind – if we can make it without being buffeted into the Mediterranean, that is. It’s hard to believe that just a few hours earlier, we were enjoying the autumn sunshine and balmy temperatures on a bench in Collioure harbor.

France’s incredibly diverse landscapes, from its towering peaks to its tempestuous coastline, making it the ideal holiday destination for walkers who crave variety. The most southerly French département, Pyrénées-Orientales, is no exception; the meeting point of the mountains and the Mediterranean in vibrant Catalan country marries high altitude hiking with relaxed seaside strolls. My boyfriend and I are here to experience the ups and downs of the southwest with Purely Pyrenees, a walking holiday company specializing in this incredible region. They’ve equipped us with everything we could need for our trip, from detailed route guides to bookings at favorite local restaurants to complete the day – all we need are our walking boots and a keen sense of adventure.

WALK ONE

Prades and the Abbey of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa (8km)