Making A Pass

Laura Paton visits Horsham’s The Pass and finds exciting food served with infectious enthusiasm

- Laura Paton

There aren’t many restaurants where you can paint your own dessert or watch a chef make a flower from cheese. But soon after taking a seat at The Pass, the chef’s table experience at South Lodge Hotel, one comes to expect the unexpected.

We arrive under the cover of darkness, so there is little clue as to the majesty of this 19th century building until, that is, we push open the heavy wooden doors and find ourselves in a great hall. More medieval castle than Victorian country home, the lofty ceilings are hung with chandeliers, casting a soft glow over the exposed stonework, plush furniture and flagstone floor.

Leaving the grandeur behind, we are led to our table, where, surrounded by the bright lights and hard surfaces of the kitchen, the excitement is palpable. Perched on stools just feet from the action, we watch as chefs glide serenely from station to station, taking a dish from empty plate to finished article.