A TYPICAL

North-east India's emerging visual artists - photographers, stylists, and models – offer a fascinating insight into their identity, re-examining the conventional lines of beauty and representation

- SHRIYA ZAMINDAR

Сulture has slowly become the buzzword of the century. It came into focus a few years ago, when the term 'homegrown' became a stamp of approval. Amidst the extravagance championed by the industry's couture stalwarts, a new space was created for upcoming names that were rooted in history, aware, and upcycled, because culture had the same hype-fluency as the emblematic Dior 'Saddle' bag guarantees approval. It was patriotism in fashion at its best.

However, while touting all the 'good Samaritan' fashion, we forget the regularly overlooked nooks and crannies of the country that have fostered fashion and style and made it a badge of honour, providing an identity to the youth. One such nook is North-east India, where anybody can get their hands on a Balenciaga blazer, not knowing its megawatt presence in the fashion world. This is a place that mainstream brands like Zara and H&M haven't influenced yet. This is a place that is waiting, with its insurmountable history of culture and talent, to unleash its full potential.

IDENTITY IN NOSTALGIA

Pre-loved and vintage clothing markets have been a resource that transgresses the boundaries of seasonal trends, which is probably why the North-eastern style is original and unadulterated by typical retail-centric trend forecasts. "People have been dressing up, layering and matching colours using whatever is available in these markets and the result is beautiful and different from what you would find in mainland India," says 26-year-old, Manipur-born stylist Manglien S. Gangte. Citing his affinity for colours, he often refers to childhood folktales in his work, along with feminine aspects that are influenced by his mother's sewing, which he witnessed growing up. “I don't know how to explain it. If it were music, it would be folk music," he says of his aesthetic.