Full Metal Alchemy

A slate of new timepieces proves that a gold watch on the wrist can indeed be a graceful statement.

- GORDON NG

Before steel stole the show, gold reigned supreme. It was only in the 1970s that sporty steel timepieces began a revolution in the world of fine watchmaking and set new aesthetic standards. The hardy, robust metal has been the most prevalent material for decades since, and given these objects an edge of utility in addition to luxury. But trends, as they say, come and go. And at the moment, it’s looking like gold—lustrous yet durable in its own right—is coming back into favour.

Consider, for instance, that when Bulgari unveiled its timepieces for the year at LVMH Watch Week in Miami, it named the theme of its showcase ‘Time is Gold’. The Italian brand meant it both literally and figuratively: touches of goldsmithing added to its collections, but also a play on the emotional resonance of the precious metal.

The latter quality is perhaps the more important one when it comes to explaining the material’s enduring and returning appeal. There’s a physical presence, for starters. Gold is a relatively heavy metal, and when worn on the wrist its heft makes itself reassuringly known to the wearer. And it has an intrinsic value and preciousness that make it timeless. We still think, to this day, of gold watches as symbols of power and success.

The draw towards gold hasn’t happened in a vacuum, of course. Take a look at the multitude of fashion designers and runway collections that are leaning into the mood and style of the 1970s and ’80s. It’s happening in the field of jewellery too, with designers honing in on crafts that centre around the metal. And so it is with timepieces, as evidenced by a host of recent releases that herald a trend well worth its weight.

Jewellery in its own right