Cabernet Country

Washington’s top red variety shines in recent vintages

- TIM FISH

It’s no secret that Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in Washington, where the vast Columbia Val-ley offers an ideal combination of sun and soil. Cabernet is by far the state’s dominant grape, accounting for nearly 30% of Washington’s total wine production.

This report is a special edition of my annual Washington coverage, spotlighting the Cabernets I have tasted since my previous report on the state (“Standing Strong,” Oct. 15, 2021). Meanwhile, watch for my complete report in the March 31, 2023, issue, in which I’ll review the full range of Washington wines, from Chardonnay and Riesling to Syrah, Merlot and beyond.

All but a few of these Cabernets are from the 2018 and 2019 vintages. The 2018s earned an overall rating of 93 points on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, and while the 2019s are too soon to call, I give them a preliminary rating of 89–92 points. Look for my ongoing reviews at WineSpectator.com.

Except for 120 acres in the Puget Sound area around Seattle, all of the state’s vines are planted east of the Cascade Mountains in Columbia Valley. The valley spans a third of the state and includes 11 sub-appellations. While Cabernet is grown in most of the valley, it thrives in a handful of regions such as Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley, each of which has stylistic differences defined by their specific terroirs.

The leading Cabernets from my tastings are familiar names. Paul Golitzin and his team produced the dynamic Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2018 (95 points, $200), which is impeccably structured yet rich and expressive. It’s approachable now but will improve for years to come.